Winemaker Notes
Dense and impenetrable, deep red to the rim. An instant proclamation of identity — formics and barrel-ferment notes propelling Shiraz spoils. Whilst these Shiraz markers highlight heady elutions of aniseed/licorice/wintergreen/fennel, primal aromatics of squashed damson plum do prevail. And beneath, wafts of pan scrapings/pan juices support all that is entwined above. 100% new oak is all but totally absorbed, yet it does conspire to complex, weave and intrigue. In this aromatic tussle, fruit remains the champion. Not unlike ‘Champagne character’, ‘Grange character’ aromatically “just is”. Immediately understood, immediately recognised. The first sip seduces, the second reminds… Up front red fruits and maraschino cherry flavors quickly transition to the ‘Noir-ish’ — Black Forest cake, blackberry, black cherry, black … Sitting softens. A Christmas pudding mix of soaked fruits and rind offers a friendly hand. Similarly talc-like/velvety tannins are non-aggressive, politely acting as a conveyance. They almost appear coupled with cocoa/dark chocolate dust. Texturally woven, with all components well integrated and absorbed… inducing a sensory perception of roundness, of a lush film
coated across the palate. Again, oak (sandalwood nuances, not cedar) sensitively stands to one side — its supporting role well scripted. Assured and distinctive, this Grange will appease and reward.
Professional Ratings
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Australian Wine Companion
A blend of 97/3% shiraz/cabernet sauvignon; matured for 20 months in 100% new American oak. As Peter Gago says, "Penfolds' 180th anniversary year, following a series of stellar Grange vintages in 2002, 2004, 2008, 2012, 2016 ... No pressure." He needn't have worried. The 2020 release is stunning. Its heady concentration and initial rush of formic herald its arrival. There's a singularity of aroma and flavour in strong Grange releases and that is certainly the case here. Deep-set blackberry, black plum and black cherry fruits of great intensity. Hints of brandied fruits, blackforest cake, dark chocolate, licorice, graphite, roasting meats, fruitcake spice, sandalwood, oak spice and turned earth. Densely packed and strong of character with a cascade of fine tannin and plenty of muscular swagger as the wine slowly tapers off with a vapour trail of black fruits, baking spices and earth. A great Grange release.
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Wine Enthusiast
The 2020 vintage—harvested at the start of a global pandemic—was a difficult one. But the quality of Australia's most collected wine hasn't slipped. Tightly wound, it's restrained, classic, comfy in its own skin without having to shout. Plump plum, cedar, ground pepper, vanilla and the charred pan scrapings of a roast: it's all there. It's a powerful wine, thanks to a mouth-full of hefty tannins, but they're well-integrated, setting this up for a very long life ahead. — Christina Pickard
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Wine Spectator
This is dense, dark and brooding up front, showcasing gravel and hot cast iron flavors that show a hint of wintergreen. The second sip is much more revealing, with generous flavors of morello cherry, blackberry preserves, cassis and chocolate truffle cake, along with spice, pepper and earth notes that are complex, deep and long. The dense tannins have a firmness that suggests a long life in the cellar, as does the crescendo of complexity on the finish. Drink now through 2044.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2020 Grange comprises 97% Shiraz and the balance Cabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale (48%), Barossa Valley (40%) and Clare Valley (12%), and it matured for 20 months in American oak hogsheads, 100% new. While the metric of regions changes each season and the proportion of Shiraz changes slightly, the élevage and style remain the same. Aromatically, the wine is black and savory, with crushed ant, black peppercorn, blueberry, blackberry and licorice/aniseed. In the mouth, the wine feels lighter than some other vintages on release. There is something like clarity and perhaps a little hole in the mid-palate—it sits like clarity or less density and also features as breathing space. A nice wine, it is lighter than the preceding 2019. Both vintages had their challenges, but this 2020 season has yielded an "easier" feeling wine.
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Vinous
This dense and brooding 2020 Shiraz Grange has all the elements for a long life with impressive levels of extract and tannins, but lacking the delicacy of a great vintage. It opens up with waves of tarry, licorice and cola aromas against a backdrop of firm, unyielding oak. Muscular, chalky tannins provide a strong frame to waves of blackberry flavor which build toward a drying finish. A couple more years in the cellar will bring all the pieces together before a two-decade drinking window.
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Decanter
The celebrated reputation of Grange places every new release under intense scrutiny, and this passes muster as sturdy and convincing, but without the stellar fireworks of 2019 or the instantaneous drink-now temptation of many from the past decade. Coming from the low-yielding 2020 vintage, a broad net was cast across McLaren Vale, Barossa and Clare to find the right mix of fruit parcels showing both concentration and complexity. With the modest addition of 3% Cabernet Sauvignon (noting that Penfolds did not release its elite Bin 707 and Bin 129 Cabernets from the 2020 vintage), this pulls tight focus on Shiraz’s primary allure – blackberry and black plum rinsed in rich mocha and dark chocolate, piqued by a dusting of cinnamon, pepper and vanilla. This is made to be cellared, and will tell a more exuberant story in another decade.
Since 1844, Penfolds has been grounded in experimentation, curiosity and uncompromising quality. Their success has been driven by a lineage of visionary winemakers. It began with Dr. Christopher and Mary Penfold, the pioneers who dreamed big, inventing tonics, brandies, and fortified wines made from grapes and Australian sunshine. It continued with celebrated winemaking legends including Max Schubert, who pushed the development to extraordinary, bold new heights. It is this pioneering spirit and curiosity that still rings true after nearly two centuries, it is what has helped Penfolds become one of the most celebrated winemakers in the world today.
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