Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide Godello 2009
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Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide's 2009 Godello was sourced from 60-year-old vines and aged on its lees. Light straw-colored, it has an impressive nose of slate/mineral, baking spices, melon, and white fruit cocktail. Very concentrated and complex on the palate, it has a creamy texture and a sense of elegance. Its acid structure suggests that it may evolve for 1-2 years and drink well for up to 4-5 years. It is an outstanding value.
70 hectares of vines are planted between 450 and 900 meters, on south facing slopes in calcerous clay or decomposed slate. Vines range in age from 20 years for foreign grapes to 60 years for Mencia. 5 Hectare are used for experimental vineyards looking at how foreign grapes take to Bierzo’s climate; they are planted with about 30 varieties including Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Macabeo, Albariño and Sauvignon Blanc. No herbicides or pesticides are used on the vineyards. The philosophy of the winery is to produce wines based on quality of and respect for the land, primarily from native grapes along with grapes from other parts of the world.
Winemaking starts with all grapes being hand harvested into 18 kilo boxes. Careful cluster sorting, eliminating unsound bunches continues the push toward quality. All varietals are fermented separately with native yeasts prior to aging in oak barrels. All of the wines are bottled unfiltered.
White grapes are used in two famous types of Spanish wine, Sherry and Cava, but we will limit this discussion to still whites. Let’s begin with perhaps the best known and most highly regarded internationally, Albariño . Produced in the region of Rías Baixas, just above Portugal in northwestern Spain, Albariño typically sees no or little oak and is medium to medium-plus in body. Aroma and flavor notes often include citrus and peach, often with subtle floral notes and a suggestion of sea spray, giving the wine a zesty feel. Often bottled as a single varietal, Albariño is sometimes blended with other indigenous grapes like Loureira and Treixadura. Try one of these Spanish whites from Forjas del Salnes.
Let’s look at a few other Spanish white wines. Godello also hails from northwestern Spain and presents a profile of grapefruit, minerality and a slight smoky quality. Enjoy a bottle from Bodegas Avancia. The region of Rueda, northwest of Madrid, is home to Verdejo , which makes refreshing, un-oaked white wines whose herbal vibrancy recalls Sauvignon Blanc . Protos makes a tasty version. Up north in the Basque region, we find the wine called Txakoli (sometimes called Txakolina). Pronounced “sha-ko-LEE,” it’s made from a local grape called Hondurrabi Zuri and is light, fresh, citrusy, dry … and with razor sharp acidity that makes it a fantastic partner with local seafood and tapas. Ameztoi Gertariako is a good Spanish white wine producer to check out.
The Penedѐs region, best known for the oceans of delicious Cava it sends to the world, also produces still Spanish whites, sometimes from international varieties like Chardonnay , and often from the same grapes used for Cava. These include Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo. Avaline produces a fine example of Penedes white. Finally, we visit the Rioja region. While it is historically and internationally famous for its reds, Rioja also produces fine Spanish white wines. These are usually based on Viura (the local name for Macabeo) and make good everyday sippers, although some aged versions can be stunningly complex. A good place to start is the white Rioja from Bodegas Muga.
As you can see, Spanish white wines offer a vast opportunity for exploration!