Winemaker Notes
The winery is located in the surroundings of the 13th-century monastery of San Miguel of Xagoaza, in the mountains next to El Barco de Valdeorras, in the province of Orense (Galicia), in the northwest of Spain. They own 38.4 acres (16 ha) of Godello grapes, in different parcels on the hills surrounding the winery, with good exposure to midday sun. The vines are trellis trained. Average production is 6000 kg/ha, or 44 hectoliters per hectare, half of the local maximum allowed.
The vineyards are located on the mountain slopes, and are therefore in terraces. The composition of the soil is of metamorphic slate, although you could find granite in other vineyards of the appellation. Planted at 1,350-1,650 feet (450-550 m) above sea level. Bodegas Godeval was the first producer to plant on the mountain slopes in modern history. The climate is continental with a great Atlantic influence; approximately 40 inches of rain a year. The appellation is located on the banks of the Sil River, and in general, most of the vineyards have a north-to-south orientation.
White grapes are used in two famous types of Spanish wine, Sherry and Cava, but we will limit this discussion to still whites. Let’s begin with perhaps the best known and most highly regarded internationally, Albariño . Produced in the region of Rías Baixas, just above Portugal in northwestern Spain, Albariño typically sees no or little oak and is medium to medium-plus in body. Aroma and flavor notes often include citrus and peach, often with subtle floral notes and a suggestion of sea spray, giving the wine a zesty feel. Often bottled as a single varietal, Albariño is sometimes blended with other indigenous grapes like Loureira and Treixadura. Try one of these Spanish whites from Forjas del Salnes.
Let’s look at a few other Spanish white wines. Godello also hails from northwestern Spain and presents a profile of grapefruit, minerality and a slight smoky quality. Enjoy a bottle from Bodegas Avancia. The region of Rueda, northwest of Madrid, is home to Verdejo , which makes refreshing, un-oaked white wines whose herbal vibrancy recalls Sauvignon Blanc . Protos makes a tasty version. Up north in the Basque region, we find the wine called Txakoli (sometimes called Txakolina). Pronounced “sha-ko-LEE,” it’s made from a local grape called Hondurrabi Zuri and is light, fresh, citrusy, dry … and with razor sharp acidity that makes it a fantastic partner with local seafood and tapas. Ameztoi Gertariako is a good Spanish white wine producer to check out.
The Penedѐs region, best known for the oceans of delicious Cava it sends to the world, also produces still Spanish whites, sometimes from international varieties like Chardonnay , and often from the same grapes used for Cava. These include Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo. Avaline produces a fine example of Penedes white. Finally, we visit the Rioja region. While it is historically and internationally famous for its reds, Rioja also produces fine Spanish white wines. These are usually based on Viura (the local name for Macabeo) and make good everyday sippers, although some aged versions can be stunningly complex. A good place to start is the white Rioja from Bodegas Muga.
As you can see, Spanish white wines offer a vast opportunity for exploration!