Winemaker Notes
Steinertal is an extremely complex location that offers optimal terrain for both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. The situation turns a little to the southwest, so in the evening always gets some heat, which are relativized by air currents from the north accordingly. The ground thickness varies considerably, as does the temperature within the location. The foundation of the Grüner Veltliner lies in the lower and deeper terraces, although here too, despite a slightly creamier texture, vital acidity and profound minerality set the tone.
Professional Ratings
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Vinous
The 2024 Grüner Veltliner Steinertal Smaragd, situated between two lateral valleys that channel cool air, gives this terraced site of gneiss higher day-to-night amplitude and lower daytime temperatures. Gentle spice brings white pepper and crushed fern on the nose. The palate arrives with perfect tension, peppery fern, fine citrus freshness and beautiful concentration. Citrus is key this year on this wonderfully long and incisive Grüner.
Range: 95-98 -
James Suckling
Sliced green apples, fennel, wet stones, seaweed and hints of green tea on the nose of this sleek and compact white. Fresh but well structured, with good weight, a medium to full body and more stony minerality than fruit. Long and focused finish.
Fun to say and delightfully easy to drink, Grüner Veltliner calls Austria its homeland. While some easily quaffable Grüners come in a one-liter—a convenient size—many high caliber single vineyard bottlings can benefit from cellar aging. Somm Secret—About 75% of the world’s Grüner Veltliner comes from Austria but the variety is gaining ground in other countries, namely Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and the United States.
As Austria’s most prestigious wine growing region, the landscape of the Wachau is—not surprisingly—one of its most dramatic. Millions of years ago, the Danube River chiseled its way through the earth, creating steep terraces of decomposed volcanic and metamorphic rock. Harsh Ice Age winds brought deposits of ancient glacial dust and loess to the terrace’s eastern faces. Today these steep surfaces of nutrient-poor and fast draining soil are home to some of Austria’s very best sites for both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.
Wachau is small, comprising a mere three percent of Austria’s vine surface and, considering relatively low yields, represents a miniscule proportion of total wine production. Diurnal temperature shifts in Wachau facilitate great balance of sugar and phenolic ripeness in its grapes. At night cold air from the Alps and forests in the northwest displace warm afternoon air, which gets sucked upstream along the Danube.
Its sites are actually so varied and distinct that more emphasis is going into vineyard-designated offerings even despite grape variety. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are most prominent, but the region produces Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Zweigelt among other local variants.