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Flat front label of wine

Sohm & Kracher Single Vineyard Gruner Veltliner 2009

Gruner Veltliner from Austria
  • W&S96
13% ABV
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13% ABV

Winemaker Notes

Gorgeously tart sour green plum and lemongrass flavor with phenomenal acidity.

Fermentation and ageing in barriques for 18 months.

Critical Acclaim

All Vintages
W&S 96
Wine & Spirits
Thought up in a Thai restaurant in Queens, realized in two small old-vine bloch in Weinviertel, this is gruner veltliner with the stature of Chassagne-Montrachet. It's the first venture between Austrian-born sommelier Aldo Sohm of Le Bernardin in New York and Burgenland winemaker Gerhard Kracher; they chose to let the grapes spontaneously ferment in barrel and bottled it without filtration in hopes of retaining the purity of the fruit. Decanting helps clear up the haze, yet the fine particles also seem to give the wine a cashmere texture. It's a fine base for the flavors, which run from savory stone to golden fruit, cardamom, cumin and fennel, lasting for minutes. While it's dense and tightly woven, there's also succulence and a glinting acidity that aims directly at the salivary glands. Sable, miso-glazed cod, a mushroom tart, anything savory and salty
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Sohm & Kracher

Sohm & Kracher

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Sohm & Kracher, Austria
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Aldo Sohm (Best Sommelier of the World 2008 and Chef Sommelier at Le Bernardin) & Gerhard Kracher bring their passion for wine and food to a boutique production Grüner Veltliner from the Wienviertal region of Austria. Weinviertel is a region rich in old vine vineyards, great soils and micro-climates. Sohm & Kracher eventually focused on two small vineyards – one called Gaisbuckel (meaning ‘the goat’s back’ hence the goat on the label). Gaisbuckel vines were planted on pure limestone rocks with a gravelly topsoil. The second vineyard is home to 35 year old vines with a similar soil structure and slightly more sandy component.

Appreciated for superior wines made from indigenous varieties, Austria should be on the radar of anyone who loves bright, elegant wines. These food-friendly, cool-climate reds and whites are quintessentially European in style with racy acidity, moderate alcohol, and tart, fresh fruit flavors. Austrian wines are prized for their near-uniform dedication to excellence, and it is now difficult to find a bad bottle.

Rather than joining in on the worldwide trend to plant international varieties, Austria has chosen to stake its reputation mainly on its native grapes. Grüner Veltliner, known for its racy acidity and vegetal and peppery aromatics, is the most important, comprising nearly a third of Austrian wines. Riesling in Austria is high in quality but not quantity, planted on less than 5% of the country’s vineyard land. Unlike their German counterparts, Austrian Rieslings are almost always dry, with higher alcohol, slightly lower acidity, and flavors that lean more toward the citrus end of the fruit spectrum. Field blends of these two grapes along with Pinot Blanc and other white varieties known as Gemischter Satz are popular for daily consumption in Vienna. Red wines include light, tart-fruited Zweigelt, juicy and spicy Blaufränkisch, and Pinot-Noir-like Saint Laurent.

Gruner Veltliner

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Difficult to pronounce yet delightfully easy to drink, Grüner Veltliner is indigenous to Austria, where it has long maintained its status as the nation’s most important white grape. It became trendy among America’s wine elite in the mid-twenty first century, and has since proven itself to be more than just a fad, becoming a mainstay on the shelves of wine shops and the pages of restaurant wine lists for those who enjoy a crisp and refreshing yet serious white wine. Grüner Veltliner performs well in cool climates, and is gaining ground in chillier pockets of California and New York’s Finger Lakes.

In the Glass

Crisp and refreshing with plenty of lively acidity, Grüner Veltliner is marked by telltale notes of white pepper and a slight vegetal quality reminiscent of green beans, as well as a streak of minerality. When less ripe, it leans toward the lemon/lime end of the fruit spectrum, while additional hangtime at harvest can lend notes of pink grapefruit and even stone fruit. A hint of spritz on the palate is not unusual.

Perfect Pairings

Grüner Veltliner is a wonderfully versatile wine—it can pair with just about any lighter fare, from seafood to poultry to complex salads. It even works with spicy foods, and can be a classic pairing with Asian dishes.

Sommelier Secret

When it comes to foods that are notoriously difficult to pair, Grüner Veltliner has been known to step in and save the day. The sulfur compounds naturally present in asparagus can imbue a wine with a highly unpleasant metallic taste, while artichokes’ cynarin compound typically cause the taste of a wine to turn unpalatably sweet. Grüner Veltliner not only manages to avoid these issues, but actually serves to complement these foods with its sharp, pungent, vegetal flavors.

SWS283156_2009 Item# 138044