Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Wine & Spirits
This is the 40th-anniversary release of Soalheiro, a project launched by José António Cerdeira, from a parcel of vines he planted with his parents, dedicated solely to alvarinho rather than traditional mixed farming. Now run by his widow, Maria Cerdeira, and their two children, Luís and Maria João, Soalheiro has remained at the forefront of great white wine in Portugal. With a new “innovation cellar” completed in 2019, the family now produces a breadth of creatively conceived wines you might have to travel halfway around the world to match (think Chester Osborn’s portfolio at d’Arenberg). Still, the flagship is in top form in 2022: Here’s an alvarinho with insistent acidic energy, lasting through white-peach flavors and a lovely soft texture to mellow its fresh feel. Very long, well-built and suited to aging.
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Wine Spectator
A lithe, vibrant offering, with a mouthwatering mix of nectarine, papaya and grated ginger notes, plus floral accents of elderflower and verbena. Lightly chalky in texture, which lends a bit of weight to the otherwise light-bodied frame, while a racy streak of salinity crackles on the finish. Drink now.
Bright and aromatic with distinctive floral and fruity characteristics, Albariño has enjoyed a surge in popularity and an increase in plantings over the last couple of decades. Thick skins allow it to withstand the humid conditions of its homeland, Rías Baixas, Spain, free of malady, and produce a weighty but fresh white. Somm Secret—Albariño claims dual citizenship in Spain and Portugal. Under the name Alvarinho, it thrives in Portugal’s northwestern Vinho Verde region, which predictably, borders part of Spain’s Rías Baixas.
A cheerful, translucid, lemon-yellow and slightly pétillant white wine, Vinho Verde literally means ‘green wine’ and is named after the northwest Portugese region from which it originates. The ‘green’ in the name refers to the youthful state in which the wines are customarily released and consumed, not the color of the wine.
It is typically a blend of various percentages of Alvarinho, Loureiro, Trajadura, and Pedernã (Arinto). Following initial alcoholic fermentation, a natural, secondary malolactic conversion in cask produces carbon dioxide, giving Vinho Verde its charmingly light sparkle.