Winemaker Notes
Grüner Veltliner is the signature grape of Austria and produces a dry white wine with savory aromas, spicy flavors, and good acidity. Grüner Veltliner Smaragd from the Wachau is a full-bodied wine and is rich in style with notes of stone fruit, lemon, radish, and arugula.
Grüner Veltliner’s bright acidity and savory character make it an ideal partner to mildly spiced Vietnamese, Thai, and Chinese flavors. Fish and shellfish are accented by Grüner Veltliner’s citrus and mineral profile while its acidity cuts the richness of pork or ham. It can also work well with foods that are difficult to pair such as bitter greens and asparagus.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
Incredibly deep and youthful nose of the most amazing herb garden you can imagine! So richly textured, concentrated and incredibly precise that you wonder which way to turn! The incredibly long and invigorating finish leaves you literally breathless. Enormous aging potential.
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Wine & Spirits
This is a substantial Smaragd from the iron-rich, calcareous and sandy soils at Kollmutz, where the 40-year-old vines on stone terraces look east and south over the Danube. The wine’s depths of citrus flavors bring honeyed notes of ruby-red grapefruit and Cara Cara oranges, along with green notes of heather and what one taster described as “stewed collard greens.” This is extreme grüner while being completely nonchalant about it, angelic in its purity of flavor, complex and needing cellar time to mellow.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Clear, very spicy and phenolic with a dense, reductive fruit bouquet, Rudi Pichler's 2021 Ried Kollmütz Grüner Veltliner Smaragd is juicy, yeasty and elegant on the palate, but unfortunately quite bitter and drying on the finish. On the one hand, it's salty, but on the other, it is only a little stimulating and even a somewhat dull Veltliner.
Rating: 90+
Fun to say and delightfully easy to drink, Grüner Veltliner calls Austria its homeland. While some easily quaffable Grüners come in a one-liter—a convenient size—many high caliber single vineyard bottlings can benefit from cellar aging. Somm Secret—About 75% of the world’s Grüner Veltliner comes from Austria but the variety is gaining ground in other countries, namely Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and the United States.
As Austria’s most prestigious wine growing region, the landscape of the Wachau is—not surprisingly—one of its most dramatic. Millions of years ago, the Danube River chiseled its way through the earth, creating steep terraces of decomposed volcanic and metamorphic rock. Harsh Ice Age winds brought deposits of ancient glacial dust and loess to the terrace’s eastern faces. Today these steep surfaces of nutrient-poor and fast draining soil are home to some of Austria’s very best sites for both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.
Wachau is small, comprising a mere three percent of Austria’s vine surface and, considering relatively low yields, represents a miniscule proportion of total wine production. Diurnal temperature shifts in Wachau facilitate great balance of sugar and phenolic ripeness in its grapes. At night cold air from the Alps and forests in the northwest displace warm afternoon air, which gets sucked upstream along the Danube.
Its sites are actually so varied and distinct that more emphasis is going into vineyard-designated offerings even despite grape variety. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are most prominent, but the region produces Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Zweigelt among other local variants.