Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
White-peach, elderflower, lemon and juniper notes here. Dry, pithy and relatively restrained on the palate with crisp acidity. Slate and spice character at the end. Takes time to open up. Then keeps going. Lots of potential.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2018 Riesling The Knoll - Lahoma Vineyards is from Seneca Lake. It comes in with three grams of residual sugar, 7.35 grams of total acidity and 12.8% alcohol. It was aged in a 70/30 blend of stainless steel and fifth-use French oak. Winemaker Kelby Russell says that, like the Dry Riesling, this was an outlier in 2018 that "hung cleanly into late October," perhaps aided along by dropping 50% of the fruit in the big 2017 vintage. The result, in any event, is very fine. On first tastes, this seems open and inviting, but the hammer comes down fast. There's plenty of power here, with some notable tension on the finish. It becomes a bit duller, perhaps that old wood component popping its head up. That may also contribute to a fuller mouthfeel. It probably is not as concentrated as some. It then awakens again, becoming mostly about classic Riesling once more. I don't know that this is the greatest Knoll ever, but it is a very fine performance, showing both good fruit and excellent structure. Ultimately, it is quite elegant. It should age well. There were 306 cases produced.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
As the most historic wine-producing region in New York state, winemaking in the Finger Lakes area dates back to the 1820s and today as a region, accounts for 90% of the state’s total wine production.
Its narrow and deep lakes created by the movement of Ice Age glaciers create an environment similar to the classic Riesling-loving regions of Europe, namely Germany and Austria. The Finger Lakes retain summer heat that incidentally warms up cold winter air, making it fall down from the lakes’ steep slopes. When spring comes, the lakes, already cooled by cold winter weather, stave off vine budding until the danger of frost has subsided. The main lakes of the zone, that is those big enough to moderate the climate in this way, are the focal points of prime vineyard areas. They include Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga.
While Riesling has fueled most of the region’s success, today Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc enjoy some attention.