Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
-
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2016 Dry Riesling was sourced from Lahoma Vineyard on Seneca Lake. It comes in with just three grams per liter of residual sugar (a little less than the 2015) and 7.1 grams of total acidity (even higher than the 2015) and 13% alcohol. The winery said this was intentionally left a bit smoky on the nose during fermentation and via lees' aging to support the fullness of fruit.
It's steely and focused with precision that belies its category, yet there is also fine fruit to go with the mouthwatering finish. I'm a little warier of that smoky nuance, not my favorite aromatic characteristic, but it seemed minor even on opening to the point where I had to think about it. The next day, that was insignificant, and hopefully it stays that way. More importantly, the wine also blossomed in general. Actually, it exploded. It showed a crisper edge but a much better expression of fruit as well. It seems full in the mouth, intense and perfectly balanced. While it may not be quite as deep as a couple of the upper-level Rieslings from Red Newt this issue, it holds its own surprisingly well.
Overall, this is a beauty. It may age extremely well if well stored. Give it a year or two in the cellar if you can so that it fulfills its promise better. If you get smoky nuances when you open it at that point, hopefully not, here's a likely remedy: air will typically help, preferably recorked overnight in the fridge. At the moment, it is a super bargain. Let's lean up.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
As the most historic wine-producing region in New York state, winemaking in the Finger Lakes area dates back to the 1820s and today as a region, accounts for 90% of the state’s total wine production.
Its narrow and deep lakes created by the movement of Ice Age glaciers create an environment similar to the classic Riesling-loving regions of Europe, namely Germany and Austria. The Finger Lakes retain summer heat that incidentally warms up cold winter air, making it fall down from the lakes’ steep slopes. When spring comes, the lakes, already cooled by cold winter weather, stave off vine budding until the danger of frost has subsided. The main lakes of the zone, that is those big enough to moderate the climate in this way, are the focal points of prime vineyard areas. They include Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga.
While Riesling has fueled most of the region’s success, today Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc enjoy some attention.