Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Wine & Spirits
As distinct from most Seneca Lake vineyards, the soils at Argetsinger are mostly limestone beneath gravel and glacial till. They deliver a riesling of seamless elegance and reserve—my note for this wine was “No splash.” The scent combines white chalk, lemon curd, a hint of fusil. The flavors are as quiet as a still lake, composed, mildly herbal, with gentle phenolics that last
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James Suckling
For the unspectacular vintage this has impressive depth and structure. Lots of candied citrus peel and some lemon curd on the nose with delicate notes of parsley and dill. It has a Scandinavian feel to it. Long, stony and herbal finish that’s slightly austere in a positive way. Now at best drinking age. Drink or hold.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Riesling Argetsinger Vineyard, another late release, has just three grams of sugar (owner Morton Hallgren said, "Our sugar analysis is only accurate down to plus or minus one gram per liter, so it can be between two and four grams per liter") plus eight grams of total acidity. It comes in at 12.7% alcohol. Steely, deep and perhaps a touch reductive, this powerful Riesling is another classic from this vineyard. It's not for the shy, though, and winemaker Morton Hallgren has built this for the long haul. As it airs out and warms, this gripping Riesling becomes a little friendlier, but only a little. It's not entirely clear where the ceiling is for this wine just yet, but let's start here and see where it goes in time. It does need to come into better balance. If you like your Rieslings softer and sweeter, this isn't going to be for you. It definitely needs a food pairing—and perhaps a bit more cellar time. Rating: 91+
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
As the most historic wine-producing region in New York state, winemaking in the Finger Lakes area dates back to the 1820s and today as a region, accounts for 90% of the state’s total wine production.
Its narrow and deep lakes created by the movement of Ice Age glaciers create an environment similar to the classic Riesling-loving regions of Europe, namely Germany and Austria. The Finger Lakes retain summer heat that incidentally warms up cold winter air, making it fall down from the lakes’ steep slopes. When spring comes, the lakes, already cooled by cold winter weather, stave off vine budding until the danger of frost has subsided. The main lakes of the zone, that is those big enough to moderate the climate in this way, are the focal points of prime vineyard areas. They include Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga.
While Riesling has fueled most of the region’s success, today Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc enjoy some attention.