Rafael Palacios As Sortes Godello 2017
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Robert
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Work by Rafael Palacios since 2004 on his plots or sortes – traditionally inherited by growers by lot – has blossomed to a model pyramid of quality. The As Sortes sits in the middle, which could suggest moderation, however it’s anything but moderate. This Godello is succulent, intense, exceptionally powerful and very long lived. Hold out for big brother Sorte O Soro if you can find it and afford it, but this is also a super-satisfactory choice. Drinking Window 2021 - 2030
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 As Sortes was bottled in September 2018, a good couple of months before I tasted it next to the 2016. It's always interesting to be able to taste two consecutive vintages together, as it's easier to see the differences between the two years. This 2017 seems to have plenty of power without loosing its freshness. The élevage in 500-liter barrels with fine lees was a little longer, up to eight months. Most of the grapes used for this 2017 were from the second harvest of the second sprouting of the grapes that were burned by frost, which means a short cycle (even if the finish was slow) and grapes with vibrant acidity. I say this because the year was warm, and there is no heat in this wine at all. In fact, it's very fresh, with crystalline purity, poised, elegant and nuanced. I am truly impressed by this 2017, which feels very young and undeveloped but with great potential. Truly impressive. Quantities were reduced because of the severe spring frosts.
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Rafael Palacios began his wine project in Valdeorras in 2004, purchasing mature vineyards of the indigenous Godello variety from older local growers. His previous experience in the area as a consultant had motivated him to try and recuperate the unique sub-zone of the Bibei Valley in the Municipality of O Bolo.
The extreme topography and the low productivity of the soil had led to the almost complete abandonment of grape production in this tiny but historic county, cultivated traditionally on terraces. The predominance of small plots is the result of inheritances drawn by lot, often out of a hat, called "Sorte" in the Galician language and the inspiration for the name As Sortes.
Godello is native to northwest Spain and has experienced a major revival in the last 20 years. Godello wines are typically sleek and lightly creamy in texture. Barrel fermentation and lees stirring are typical in Valdeorras, Spain where the grape comes from. These winemaking techniques make the most of Godello's inherent structure and help bring out its lovely floral character. Somm Secret—DNA profiling says that Spain’s Godello is actually identical to the Portugese grape variety Gouveio, which grows throughout the Douro and Dão (where it used to mistakenly be called Verdelho).
Just to the south of Bierzo, the steeply terraced Valdeorras Spanish wine region is a respected source of both red and white wines. Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet) and Mencía are the principal red varieties while Godello and Palomino compose the majority of this region's whites.