Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Wine Enthusiast
A touch of tar, a hint of bitter almond and brooding black cherry fruit mark the nose and spread freely across the palate with dark but delicious intent. This is dense and firm, with drying tannins but no heaviness. There is freshness and intensity to the dark, brooding fruit that will show its true colors with some more age—but all the aromatic promise is already here. Drink 2020–2035.
Cellar Selection -
Wine Spectator
This harmonious red combines power and grace. Full-flavored, starting with seductive aromas of Asian spice and rose hip, leading into a deep well of blackberry, cassis, dark plum and mocha flavors. Mineral and vanilla accents fill the long finish. Drink now through 2025.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Sourced from the shell limestone soils in the Oggau Bratschweingarten, the 2015 Leithaberg Blaufränkisch was fermented for three weeks in open stainless steel fermenters and aged in Stückfass oak vats for 19 months. Pure, fresh and floral on the nose, with crunchy and spicy notes, this is a very charming, fine and elegant red wine with a delicate mocha flavor and refined acidity. This is bright, fresh, salty, beautifully straight and finessed and reveals stimulating purity and frisky character. The "Bratsche" is "the feminine part of the Marienthal," says Georg Prieler, who likes the Fruchtspiel a lot here. It's still young and a bit astringent but with very good aging potential.
Inky magenta with aromas of violets, herbs and spices, Blaufrankisch first appeared in Austria in the 18th century and today is the second most planted red variety in Austria after its own offspring, Zweigelt. Blaufrankisch thrives in the warmer Austrian zones and while most of the global acreage remains here, the variety has travelled a bit outside of its homeland. Somm Secret—In pre-Medieval times grapes were divided into superior quality, those whose origins lay with the Franks, called “Frankisch,” and all others, which were deemed inferior. This well-revered grape took the name, blau (meaning blue or dark) plus, “Frankisch,” or Blaufrankisch.
The source of Austria’s finest botrytized sweet wines, Burgenland covers a lofty portion of Austria's wine producing real estate. It encompasses the smaller regions of Neusiedlersee, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Mittelburgenland and Südburgenland. The latter two are most associated with their exceptional red wines. The region as a whole produces no shortage of important whites.
Neusiedlersee, named for the lake that it surrounds to the east, is home to a great diversity of grape varieties. The region’s most notable wines, however, are the botrytis-infected, sweet versions.
Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, which wraps the lake on its western side, includes the town of Rust, a historically esteemed wine community. Its close proximity to the lake’s fog and mist make it another source of some of the more prestigious botrytized wines. Neusiedlersee-Hügelland also produces fine Blaufränkisch, Pinot Blanc, Neuburger and Grüner Veltliner, though a label will usually name the more general, Burgenland, so as not to confuse it with its eastern cousin, Neusiedlersee, across the lake.
Blaufränkisch is well suited to and makes up over half of the vineyard area in Mittelburgenland. The region’s hills and plateaus, which are composed of variations in schist, loess and clay-limestone, produce high quality reds with interesting diversity.
Südburgenland, also known for its deep, complex and age-worthy Blaufränkisch, is beginning to turn out some alluring whites from Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc).