Winemaker Notes
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. Wachstum Bodenstein’s high elevation, bordering the forest at the top of the mountain, produces one of Prager’s most mineral and finessed Rieslings.
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
So much Amalfi-lemon, lemon-blossom and white-tea character. Cool, sleek and very tightly wound with major minerality. Super-crisp, in spite of the considerable power. Intense rock-salt and green-apple finish. Drink or hold.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From the Achleiten at 460 meters above sea level, the 2020 Riesling Smaragd Wachstum Bodenstein opens with an intense, ripe and fleshy yet coolish, refined and elegant bouquet of white peaches and perfectly ripe apricots. The palate is crystalline, fresh and piquant, quite tight and salty, with firm and fleshy fruit aromas intertwined with a delicate juiciness and the crisp fruit flesh around the pit. A great wine. Tasted at the domain in June 2021.
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Wine Enthusiast
This is an incredible showing for a youthful wine like this, with intriguing brilliance of all elements. There is a seductive aroma of orange blossom pulling you in, while the seductive creaminess of the texture makes sure you’re here to stay. The acidity gives it a sense of elegance and refinement, while flavors of ripe pear, peach and apricot drape over. The finish is concentrated and well structured.”
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
As Austria’s most prestigious wine growing region, the landscape of the Wachau is—not surprisingly—one of its most dramatic. Millions of years ago, the Danube River chiseled its way through the earth, creating steep terraces of decomposed volcanic and metamorphic rock. Harsh Ice Age winds brought deposits of ancient glacial dust and loess to the terrace’s eastern faces. Today these steep surfaces of nutrient-poor and fast draining soil are home to some of Austria’s very best sites for both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.
Wachau is small, comprising a mere three percent of Austria’s vine surface and, considering relatively low yields, represents a miniscule proportion of total wine production. Diurnal temperature shifts in Wachau facilitate great balance of sugar and phenolic ripeness in its grapes. At night cold air from the Alps and forests in the northwest displace warm afternoon air, which gets sucked upstream along the Danube.
Its sites are actually so varied and distinct that more emphasis is going into vineyard-designated offerings even despite grape variety. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are most prominent, but the region produces Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Zweigelt among other local variants.