Winemaker Notes
The delicate use of the oak is very well integrated with the gentle tannins, the aromas and the acidity creating a harmonious balance, especially in the Barbarescos. A superb high-quality and accessible vintage which will as well reveal the great ageing potential of Nebbiolo.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
Enchanting aromas of flowers like violets and lemon blossom, with raspberries and cranberries. Full-bodied yet focused and framed with a structure that builds on your palate and grows and grows, yet it remains fresh and vivid. The tannins are energetic and so, so long. A contemporary jewel. Fascinating. Thoughtful wine.
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Decanter
Mosconi opens with an appealing rusty scent which mingles with macerated cherry and balsamic herbs. It's vertical in character, with more of a red-fruit profile compared to the broader, palate-spanning, dark-fruited Ornato. Dusty tannins and sapid red and black cherry at the core are surrounded by flecks of orange peel, iron, salt, herbs, black pepper and oak. A pretty, complex and ageworthy Barolo.
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2020 Barolo Mosconi displays a darker ruby color and reveals a fantastic nose with spicier notes of fresh red cherries, incense, candied roses, fresh sage, and peppery spice. Elegant, with fine tannins and mouthwatering freshness, it’s ripe but very pure, with a long, clean finish. It’s delicious out of the gate but is sure to age with grace over the coming 15 years. I continue to be impressed with the consistency and value these wines have to offer, and readers should not sleep on them, since they’re widely available. Drink 2024-2040.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
With fruit from Montforte d'Alba, the Pio Cesare 2020 Barolo Mosconi was first produced in 2015. Although the winery team has more than five years of experience with Mosconi, Cesare Benvenuto tells me that there was a steep learning curve with this wine. Mosconi is 300 meters removed from Ornato; however, the results are quite different, especially in terms of the mouthfeel. Mosconi shows silky or velvety tannins, and Ornato is more structured. This wine is lifted in terms of aromas, with bright raspberry and blue flowers. It reveals an open but translucent quality that gives this Barolo an especially elegant and undertone personality.
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Wine Enthusiast
The Mosconi unfurls with a medley of ripe plum and cherry, underpinned by the soft perfume of blue violets and rosebuds, with sandalwood, wild herbs, and roasted shiitake adding depth. On the palate, red fruits shine through a refined and silky structure, flanked by a rich tapestry of savory spices and a hint of briny minerality. Drink now–2040.
Editors' Choice -
Wine Spectator
This rich red features a dense matrix of tannins and lively acidity uplifting its cherry, menthol, mineral and spice flavors. Austere for the vintage now, yet there's good viscosity midpalate and this finishes long and detailed. Best from 2028 through 2050.
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Vinous
The 2020 Barolo Mosconi is another very soft wine in this range. It shows good depth, but it's hard to look past the excessively easygoing style. Taken on its own, the Mosconi is an undeniably attractive Barolo. But Mosconi is one of the most distinctive sites in Barolo, and that just does not come through here. This needs more site expression.
Pio Cesare has been producing wine for more than 100 years and through generations. The tradition began in 1881, when Pio Cesare started gathering grapes in his vineyards and purchasing those of some selected and reliable farmers in the hills of Barolo and Barbaresco districts.
At Pio Cesare, there has always been a conviction that great wine can come only from the finest grapes and the winery's output has always been limited through adherence to the highest standards. Pio Cesare limits its production by using only the most mature and healthy grapes. The ripening of the grapes is carefully monitored and the harvest is rigidly controlled with each grape selected by hand.
Today, the estate is managed by Pio Boffa, great-grandson of Pio Cesare. Under his stewardship, the wines of Pio Cesare have become famous throughout the world. Great strides have been made in quality, and single vineyard offerings have dazzled the wine press.
Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.
The center of the production of the world’s most exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo, the Barolo wine region includes five core townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. The landscape of Barolo, characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Its wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, have a deceptively light garnet color but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. In a well-made Barolo wine, one can expect to find complexity and good evolution with notes of, for example, strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.
There are two predominant soil types here, which distinguish Barolo from the lesser surrounding areas. Compact and fertile Tortonian sandy marls define the vineyards farthest west and at higher elevations. Typically the Barolo wines coming from this side, from La Morra and Barolo, can be approachable relatively early on in their evolution and represent the “feminine” side of Barolo, often closer in style to Barbaresco with elegant perfume and fresh fruit.
On the eastern side of the Barolo wine region, Helvetian soils of compressed sandstone and chalks are less fertile, producing wines with intense body, power and structured tannins. This more “masculine” style comes from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The township of Castiglione Falletto covers a spine with both soil types.
The best Barolo wines need 10-15 years before they are ready to drink, and can further age for several decades.