Nikolaihof Im Weingebirge Federspiel Gruner Veltliner 2017
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Parker
Robert
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Winemaker Notes
For the last few years I’ve been finding the very soul of Nikolaihof in these early-released gentle beings. This one is amazingly winsome and delicate for a ’17; gentle fruit but vivid mineral. It has a straight-lined dryness that seems to inhere to ’17 at this estate
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From one of the oldest vineyard designations in Europe (first mentioned in 511 AD) and grown on clay, loess and paragneiss soils, the 2017 Im Weingebirge Grüner Veltliner Federspiel displays a clear and subtle bouquet of white fruits, almonds, cinnamon, stewed apples and a dash of fresh lemon juice. Very elegant and beautifully balanced on the palate, this is a dense, well-structured and persistent Veltliner with a fine, crystalline acidity and a long and intense finish.
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James
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James
Fun to say and delightfully easy to drink, Grüner Veltliner calls Austria its homeland. While some easily quaffable Grüners come in a one-liter—a convenient size—many high caliber single vineyard bottlings can benefit from cellar aging. Somm Secret—About 75% of the world’s Grüner Veltliner comes from Austria but the variety is gaining ground in other countries, namely Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and the United States.
As Austria’s most prestigious wine growing region, the landscape of the Wachau is—not surprisingly—one of its most dramatic. Millions of years ago, the Danube River chiseled its way through the earth, creating steep terraces of decomposed volcanic and metamorphic rock. Harsh Ice Age winds brought deposits of ancient glacial dust and loess to the terrace’s eastern faces. Today these steep surfaces of nutrient-poor and fast draining soil are home to some of Austria’s very best sites for both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.
Wachau is small, comprising a mere three percent of Austria’s vine surface and, considering relatively low yields, represents a miniscule proportion of total wine production. Diurnal temperature shifts in Wachau facilitate great balance of sugar and phenolic ripeness in its grapes. At night cold air from the Alps and forests in the northwest displace warm afternoon air, which gets sucked upstream along the Danube.
Its sites are actually so varied and distinct that more emphasis is going into vineyard-designated offerings even despite grape variety. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are most prominent, but the region produces Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Zweigelt among other local variants.