Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2019 Dry Rosé Kelby James Russell is a Cabernet Franc made at Red Newt and sourced from Nutt Road Vineyard on Seneca Lake. Dry, it comes in with just one gram of residual sugar and 6.15 of total acidity, plus 12% alcohol (and a pH of 3.43, for you geeks out there). Whew. In its youth, this feels surprisingly full-bodied, all things considered. Then, of course, we expect it to be dry with plenty of power—and it has its fair share. The structure is tightly wrapped around the mid-palate. This year, though, there is fine supporting fruit to counter the acidity. It has dried herbs with some black fruits—always dry, fresh and serious, with gravitas. This seems like a rather serious pink. It will be interesting to see how it develops and how long it stays at peak. It might even be better next spring. At the moment, this has a good chance to be the best yet in what has been a fine brand. There were 625 cases produced.
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Wine Enthusiast
Light blood orange in hue, this Cab Franc rosé starts off with light aromas of ripe strawberry, basil and a hint of crushed black pepper. The palate is rounded and juicy yet well structured and plump in feel. Red berry and herb flavors are propped up by fresh acidity and a light grip of tannins. This is a bolder style of rosé that could be easily enjoyed alongside richer proteins in the summer months, but could also be enjoyed in the cooler months of the year.
Whether it’s playful and fun or savory and serious, most rosé today is not your grandmother’s White Zinfandel, though that category remains strong. Pink wine has recently become quite trendy, and this time around it’s commonly quite dry. Since the pigment in red wines comes from keeping fermenting juice in contact with the grape skins for an extended period, it follows that a pink wine can be made using just a brief period of skin contact—usually just a couple of days. The resulting color depends on grape variety and winemaking style, ranging from pale salmon to deep magenta.
As the most historic wine-producing region in New York state, winemaking in the Finger Lakes area dates back to the 1820s and today as a region, accounts for 90% of the state’s total wine production.
Its narrow and deep lakes created by the movement of Ice Age glaciers create an environment similar to the classic Riesling-loving regions of Europe, namely Germany and Austria. The Finger Lakes retain summer heat that incidentally warms up cold winter air, making it fall down from the lakes’ steep slopes. When spring comes, the lakes, already cooled by cold winter weather, stave off vine budding until the danger of frost has subsided. The main lakes of the zone, that is those big enough to moderate the climate in this way, are the focal points of prime vineyard areas. They include Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga.
While Riesling has fueled most of the region’s success, today Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc enjoy some attention.