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Jean Max Roger Pouilly Fume Les Chante-Alouettes 2015
The Roger family has lived in Bué since the sixteenth century. The attractive village meanders up a narrow valley to the south west of Sancerre. Wine is the occupation of at least four fifths of the village; the commune has more land under vine than any other in Sancerre. It is famous for the Clos du Chêne Marchand and Le Grand Chemarin; vineyards shared by a number of growers including Jean-Max Roger, who has a major share of both.
After studying enology in Beaune for 5 years, Jean-Max returned to Bué in 1971 to run the family estate. Since then, this short, bearded and energetic vintner has worked diligently to increase the holdings and improve the quality of the wines. About 10 years ago he took an interest in the neighbouring appellation, Menetou Salon, and purchased a few hectares at Morogues. His specialty though remains Bué. The wines are renown for their elegance and richness. As a rule they are fat and intense. Those wines originating from Jean-Max's holdings in "Le Chêne Marchand" (Cuvée C.M.) and "Le Grand Chemarin" (Cuvée G.C.) are in a class of their own with extra depth and polish. (Unfortunately due to a lack of clearly defined boundaries there is no specific appellation for "Le Chêne Marchand" and "Le Grand Chemarin". Hence the terms "Cuvée C.M." and "Cuvée G.C." on the labels.)
There is another claim to fame in Bué, the local goat's cheese, or "Crottin" as it is called. At one time the population of goats in the village was larger than that of people ! Nearly every vigneron has a goat in his back yard and no one can dispute the fact that there is no better gastronomic association locally than Sancerre with "crottin".
Jean-Max Roger also has 7 Hectares of Pinot Noir; his superb Sancerre Rouge and Rosé wines represent 30 % of his production. Le Grand Chemarin is the best source of the outstanding red wine aged in small relatively new burgundian oak casks.
A crisp, refreshing variety that equally reflects both terroir and varietal character, Sauvignon blanc is responsible for a vast array of wine styles. However, a couple of commonalities always exist—namely, zesty acidity and intense aromatics. The variety is of French provenance, and here is most important in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley. It also shines in New Zealand, California, Australia and parts of northeastern Italy. Chile and South Africa are excellent sources of high-quality, value-priced Sauvignon blanc.
In the Glass
From its homeland In Bordeaux, winemakers prefer to blend it with Sémillon to produce a softer, richer style. In the Loire Valley, it expresses citrus, flint and smoky flavors, especially from in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume. Marlborough, New Zealand often produces a pungent and racy version, often reminiscent of cut grass, gooseberry and grapefruit. California produces fruity and rich oak-aged versions as well as snappy and fresh, Sauvignon blancs, which never see any oak.
The freshness of Sauvignon Blanc’s flavor lends it to a range of light, summery dishes including salad, seafood and mild Asian cuisine. Sauvignon Blanc settles in comfortably at the table with notoriously difficult foods like artichokes or asparagus. When combined with Sémillon (and perhaps some oak), it can be paired with more complex seafood and chicken dishes.
Along with Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc is the proud parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. That green bell pepper aroma that all three varieties share is no coincidence—it comes from a high concentration of pyrazines (an herbaceous aromatic compound) inherent to each member of the family.