Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Jeb Dunnuck
Tasted from numerous bottles from opening through the end of the evening, the 1997 Sperss was a showstopper from start to finish. It was showcased alongside the Bruno Giacosa 2000 Barbaresco Riserva Asili. From the era when some Barbera was included in the blend and not categorized as Barolo at that time, it boasts freshness and length, with incredible energy and balance. Notes of black cherry cordial, truffle, gravelly earth, leather, and dried lavender emerge and last long through the finish. The palate retains structure, with plenty of ripe fruit through the mid-palate and finish.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years.
Attracting the most glory, prestige and fame to the Piedmont region, Nebbiolo in all of its expressions—Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Ghemme and Gattinara—creates a complex wine, truly unique for its delicate qualities combined with strength and a great potential to improve over time.
But Nebbiolo isn’t all there is to red wine from Piedmont! Barbera is the most planted variety and historically most popular as a dependable, food-friendly, everyday wine.
Beyond these two, a surprising number of red varieties call Piedmont their home. Worth a try include Dolcetto for its bold concentration and aromas of spice cake. Other grapes to investigate include Freisa, Croatina, Brachetto, Grignolino and Pelaverga.