Winemaker Notes
From a 0.8 ha parcel on Mont Damnés, considered one of the top vineyards in all of Sancerre. South facing. Very steep slope on Kimmerdigian limestone and clay, with tons of rocks. 45+ year old vines. Indigenous yeast. Fermented and aged in very old demi-muids. Unfined and unfiltered. Bottled by hand directly from barrel.
Professional Ratings
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Vinous
If you've ever attended a classical concert, there's a brief pause between movements of a symphony; in it, there's a poised hush and a sense of crackling anticipation. The 2022 Monts Damnés reminds me of this hush. It is so very quiet, with a citrusy twinkle in its eye. Despite its initial delicacy and light body, its structure crescendos towards the wine's finale, offering a sense of body, muscle and sinew that requires more time in bottle. I'd happily wait a while.
Capable of a vast array of styles, Sauvignon Blanc is a crisp, refreshing variety that equally reflects both terroir and varietal character. Though it can vary depending on where it is grown, a couple of commonalities always exist—namely, zesty acidity and intense aromatics. This variety is of French provenance. Somm Secret—Along with Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc is a proud parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. That green bell pepper aroma that all three varieties share is no coincidence—it comes from a high concentration of pyrazines (herbaceous aromatic compounds) inherent to each member of the family.
Marked by its charming hilltop village in the easternmost territory of the Loire, Sancerre is famous for its racy, vivacious, citrus-dominant Sauvignon blanc. Its enormous popularity in 1970s French bistros led to its success as the go-to restaurant white around the globe in the 1980s.
While the region claims a continental climate, noted for short, hot summers and long, cold winters, variations in topography—rolling hills and steep slopes from about 600 to 1,300 feet in elevation—with great soil variations, contribute the variations in character in Sancerre Sauvignon blancs.
In the western part of the appellation, clay and limestone soils with Kimmeridgean marne, especially in Chavignol, produce powerful wines. Moving closer to the actual town of Sancerre, soils are gravel and limestone, producing especially delicate wines. Flint (silex) soils close to the village produce particularly perfumed and age-worthy wines.
About ten percent of the wines claiming the Sancerre appellation name are fresh and light red wines made from Pinot noir and to a lesser extent, rosés. While not typically exported in large amounts, they are well-made and attract a loyal French following.