Winemaker Notes
Finely woven through all of the 2021 Forge Cellars wines is a saline quality, an unmistakable nod to the sea. Tucked behind this stentorian shadow of salinity are the flowers of the vintage, delicate yet perceptible in the glass. Perhaps this was most noticeable in the difference between the two clones of Riesling harvested at Breakneck, each vinified and aged separately, and each showing remarkably distinctive personalities. On the one hand, they had a clone that showed classic Breakneck features–salt, gravel, vibrancy–and on the other, they had a suave new persona filled with wild roses and lilies.
This was such a fascinating discovery that up until the final moments of blending, Forge had planned to bottle the clones separately. Ultimately, in the late hours of contemplation, they determined that the two personalities of Breakneck complimented each other in a way that made the final wine feel more "complete," and in all honesty, more interesting to drink (the juxtaposition on the palate makes for an exhilarating game of cat and mouse).
Professional Ratings
-
Wine Spectator
Lovely, with a mix of quince, yuzu, persimmon and bitter almond notes all seamlessly layered together, carried by taut slate minerality. Long, focused finish. Drink now through 2031. 180 cases made.
-
Wine & Spirits
This leads with a dry, spicy apple scent and hints of brown herbs. The flavors are dry and austere, but with impressive persistence that's mouthwatering and intense. There's not much depth here but plenty of movement.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
As the most historic wine-producing region in New York state, winemaking in the Finger Lakes area dates back to the 1820s and today as a region, accounts for 90% of the state’s total wine production.
Its narrow and deep lakes created by the movement of Ice Age glaciers create an environment similar to the classic Riesling-loving regions of Europe, namely Germany and Austria. The Finger Lakes retain summer heat that incidentally warms up cold winter air, making it fall down from the lakes’ steep slopes. When spring comes, the lakes, already cooled by cold winter weather, stave off vine budding until the danger of frost has subsided. The main lakes of the zone, that is those big enough to moderate the climate in this way, are the focal points of prime vineyard areas. They include Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga.
While Riesling has fueled most of the region’s success, today Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc enjoy some attention.