Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
This has developed very nicely and is now at its mature peak. A cool and elegant pinot noir that reminds me of good red Burgundies from the 1970s. Velvety tannins, animating but not dominant acidity and dry forest floor character are beautifully interwoven. Still very much alive. Long, well-structured finish with some minerals.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From a very ripe vintage, according to owner-winemaker Christopher Bates, the 2012 Pinot Noir weighs in at a hefty—for the Finger Lakes—13.5% alcohol. Even more than a decade after the vintage, it still offers some pretty aromatics of roses and dark cherries accented by some smoky nuances. It's medium-bodied and silky-textured, with a lingering finish that's just starting to fray a little.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
As the most historic wine-producing region in New York state, winemaking in the Finger Lakes area dates back to the 1820s and today as a region, accounts for 90% of the state’s total wine production.
Its narrow and deep lakes created by the movement of Ice Age glaciers create an environment similar to the classic Riesling-loving regions of Europe, namely Germany and Austria. The Finger Lakes retain summer heat that incidentally warms up cold winter air, making it fall down from the lakes’ steep slopes. When spring comes, the lakes, already cooled by cold winter weather, stave off vine budding until the danger of frost has subsided. The main lakes of the zone, that is those big enough to moderate the climate in this way, are the focal points of prime vineyard areas. They include Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga.
While Riesling has fueled most of the region’s success, today Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc enjoy some attention.