Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2021
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Spectator
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Somm Note
Winemaker Notes
Pale straw. Bright, fresh, citrus characters predominate with subtle, riper tones of tropical fruit as well as jasmine and orange blossom details in the background. A crunchy palate bursting with pure grapefruit with juicy tropical fruit, saline texture
and crisp, refreshing acidity. The low yields have meant generous concentration and a lengthy finish.
Professional Ratings
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Wine Spectator
Intriguing and aromatic, this has a singed note to the up-front peach, honeysuckle and jasmine flavors, but the lush core is pure melon, apricot and lemon curd on a fleshy frame. Finishes with candied ginger, marmalade and spice, with fresh vibrant acidity.
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Vinous
Unlike most Marlborough Sauvignons, the 2021 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc is cropped low and hand-harvested in a bid to increase concentration and restraint, respectively. This is a Scrappy Doo of a wine with its youthful “lemme at 'em” vivacity. It has masses of dissolved CO2, clearly visible on pouring, which provides a slight crackle in the mouth. The wine is citrus-driven, with lemon and lime meeting pineapple and more subtle details of jasmine, green herbs and flint. The finish is powerful and intense, potentially due to the naturally low yields of 2021 adding that extra punch. I'd like to leave this another six months to allow Scrappy Doo to calm down, although I suspect it'll be put on wine lists and sold before then.
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Wine Enthusiast
Like two flint rocks striking one another, there’s a smoky, sulfuric aroma that mingles with toasted nut and oyster shell. More delicate fruit (pithy lime) and floral aromas arrive after some time in glass. There’s a textural richness to the palate. It’s sliced by razor-edged acidity. Crunchy and citrusy with length and poise, this manages to be delicate and bold all at once. It’s a divisive style but one that enormously rewards time and food.
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Almost since its inception, Dog Point has been recognized as among the very top (arguably the very top) wine producers in New Zealand. Their two very different Sauvignon Blancs, their Pinot Noir and their Chardonnay are all wines of astounding quality and complexity not just in the context of New Zealand wines, but globally. Their wines are hand-crafted from estate fruit grown on some of the oldest vines and best sites in Marlborough, some plantings dating back to the 1970s. These older well-established vines situated on free draining silty clay loams are supplemented with fruit from closely planted hillside vines. Yields are low, and the grapes are hand-harvested. That’s our attempt at an understated New Zealand statement: few hand-pick fruit in New Zealand (95% is machine-harvested), and Dog Point’s Sauvignon Blanc yields, for example, are 50% below the average for the region.
Dog Point’s focus on pruning, soil health through organic farming, use of native yeasts and for one wine selected neutral commercial yeasts, all point to a quality and detail-obsessed producer intimately familiar with its region. Dog Point is in fact the result of a collaboration between two Cloudy Bay alumni, enologist James Healy and founding viticulturalist Ivan Sutherland. Both left Cloudy Bay at the end of 2003, and the first vintage of Dog Point released was the 2002 vintage.
The winemaking is non-interventionist, and all the wines (with the exception of the stainless steel Sauvignon Blanc) are given extended barrel aging with minimal racking and handling. Bottling is done without fining and with minimal filtration. The resulting wines are intense, complex, with racy natural acidity and ripe, full fruit flavors.
The name Dog Point dates from the earliest European settlement of Marlborough and the introduction of sheep to the district. These were the days of few fences, of boundary riders and boundary-keeping dogs. Shepherds’ dogs sometimes became lost or wandered off and eventually bred into a wild pack. Their home was a tussock and scrub covered hill, overlooking the Wairau Plains, designated by the early settlers as Dog Point.
Capable of a vast array of styles, Sauvignon Blanc is a crisp, refreshing variety that equally reflects both terroir and varietal character. Though it can vary depending on where it is grown, a couple of commonalities always exist—namely, zesty acidity and intense aromatics. This variety is of French provenance. Somm Secret—Along with Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc is a proud parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. That green bell pepper aroma that all three varieties share is no coincidence—it comes from a high concentration of pyrazines (herbaceous aromatic compounds) inherent to each member of the family.
An icon and leading region of New Zealand's distinctive style of Sauvignon blanc, Marlborough has a unique terroir, making it ideal for high quality grape production (of many varieties). Despite some common generalizations, which could be fairly justified given that Marlborough is responsible for 90% of New Zealand's Sauvignon blanc production, the wines from this region are actually anything but homogenous. At the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island, the vineyards of Marlborough benefit from well-draining, stony soils, a dry, sunny climate and wide temperature fluctuations between day and night, a phenomenon that supports a perfect balance between berry ripeness and acidity.
The region’s king variety, Sauvignon blanc, is beloved for its pungent, aromatic character with notes of exotic tropical fruit, freshly cut grass and green bell pepper along with a refreshing streak of stony minerality. These wines are made in a wide range of styles, and winemakers take advantage of various clones, vineyard sites, fermentation styles, lees-stirring and aging regimens to differentiate their bottlings, one from one another.
Also produced successfully here are fruit-forward Pinot noirs (especially where soils are clay-rich), elegant Riesling, Pinot gris and Gewürztraminer.