Tramin Nussbaumer Gewurztraminer 2020
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
Wonderful nose of yellow roses, fresh pineapple and jasmine, with delicately spicy overtones. Stunning ripeness and concentration, but even more importantly, almost impeccable balance for a grape variety that’s a winemaker’s nightmare. Very long, silky finish, where the 15% alcohol is barely perceptible. Drink or hold.
Located in the heart of Alto Adige in the town of Termeno on the south side of the Alps, Tramin comprises of one of the oldest networks of farmers forming a winery. Rich in tradition, Tramin’s wines are authentic expressions of a unique terroir, supported by a common philosophy of hard work, dedication, confidence and creativity among all participating members. Tramin operates on a human scale with a farmer-to-land ratio similar to that of a small estate, allowing for delicate hand-harvesting. A unique architectural landmark that blends in among its natural surroundings was designed for Cantina Tramin’s new headquarters in 2010, combining a modern structure with the original cellar. When viewed from outside, the building is striking for its curves, while the interior is a well-planned winery with dedicated areas for cellar workers and visiting wine enthusiasts. Designed by leading Italian architect Tscholl Werner, the building is located on the exact footprint of the original cellar so as not to sacrifice any land from the surrounding vineyards. Founded in 1889 by Pastor Christian Schrott, Tramin now boasts 270 members across approximately 620 acres in the communities of Tramin, Neumarkt, Montan and Auer. The town of Tramin — the German name for Termeno — is home to the aromatic grape, Gewürztraminer. The Traminer grape (as it is affectionately called here) is one of the oldest in the world and boasts a noble lineage. In fact, recent studies show that it is the ancestor of some of the oldest grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling, and Pinots Blanc, Gris and Noir. At Cantina Tramin, the Traminer grape grows in the subzone of Sella, a terroir that’s particularly suited to Gewürztraminer; hence the name of the winery, Cantina Tramin. Among the northernmost vineyards in Italy, the 620 acres that provide grapes for the Tramin winery are located in Alto Adige, better known to its mostly German-speaking inhabitants as the Südtirol. These vines grow in an exquisite, high-walled glacial valley that protects them from the northern cold and traps the sun’s warmth. The winery itself is located on the Wine Route (Strada di Vino/Weinstrasse) in the commune of Termeno — or Tramin in German — a few miles south of the provincial capital Bolzano (Bozen) and 60 miles from the Austrian border. Approximately 37 acres of Tramin’s vineyards are currently cultivated using organic and biodynamic principles. With 12 Tre Bicchieri-award winning wines to date, Tramin also boasts the talent of Willi Stürz, named Gambero Rosso’s “Winemaker of the Year” in 2004. He joined the winery in 1992 and has been committed to addressing its winemaking challenges from the start. A native of Termeno, he is deeply tied to its culture and people, which can be seen in his work. A professional of uncommon depth and focus, Willi cultivates a balance of traditional winemaking with the use of modern technology and deep expertise, which has resulted in great success for Tramin. Wolfgang Klotz oversees sales and marketing, and manages the winery with Willi Stürz.
Trentino, the southern half, is primarily Italian-speaking and largely responsible for the production of non-native, international grapes. There is a significant quantity of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Merlot produced. But Trentino's native and most unique red variety, Teroldego, while still rare, is gaining popularity. It produces a deeply colored red wine rich in wild blackberry, herb, coffee and cocoa.
The rugged terrain of German-speaking Alto Adige (also referred to as Südtirol) focuses on small-scale viticulture, with great value placed on local varieties—though international varieties have been widely planted since the 1800s. Sheltered by the Alps from harsh northerly winds, many of the best vineyards are at extreme altitude but on steep slopes to increase sunlight exposure.
The primary white grapes are Pinot grigio, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot blanc, as well as smaller plantings of Sauvignon blanc, Müller Thurgau. These tend to be bright and refreshing with crisp acidity and just the right amount of texture. Some of the highest quality Pinot grigio in Italy is made here.
Gewürztraminer, an expressive and aromatically distinctive white grape variety, is considered a noble variety in the Alsace region of France, and produces wonderful wines in the mountainous Alto Adige region of NE Italy. Generally this grape grows well in cooler regions and its natural intensity makes it a great ally for flavorful cuisine such as Indian, Middle Eastern or Moroccan. Somm Secret—Because of a charming perfume and tendency towards slight sweetness, Gewürztraminer makes for an excellent gateway wine for those who love sweet wines but want to venture into the realm of drier whites.