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Thorne Rio Vista Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009
This is an elegant wine with a bright fruit aroma, delicate ruby color, subtle berry flavors of raspberry and cherry, with a smooth lingering finish.
The Rio Vista Ranch has been in the family for over fifty years of raising cattle and farming. Bobbie Thorne's father Jack Wiester acquired the property in the mid fifties and Bobbie and Graner Thorne were married in the area in 1958. Over the years the Thornes and their children, John and Karey, shared their time on the ranch with their city home in Palos Verdes. They rode horses, worked cattle, and earned their keep during the summers on the ranch. Over the years, the Rio Vista Ranch has continued to be a gathering point for the immediate and extended family.
Graner and Bobbie Thorne continue to share their time between the Southland and Sta. Rita Hills, though their active involvement with their vineyard and the new wine brand finds them on the Rio Vista property with increasing frequency.
The first two vintages of Thorne Pinot Noir were made by different winemakers. This 2008 vintage (and two subsequent as yet unreleased vintages) were made by Ken Brown.
A superior source of California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills is the coolest, westernmost sub-region of the larger Santa Ynez Valley appellation within Santa Barbara County. This relatively new AVA is unquestionably one to keep an eye on.
The climate of Sta. Rita Hills is a natural match for Chardonnay and Pinot noir, thanks to the crisp ocean breezes and well-drained, limestone-rich calcareous soil. Here, grapes ripen just enough, while retaining brisk acidity and harmonious balance.
One of the most finicky yet rewarding grapes to grow, Pinot Noir is a labor of love for many. However, the greatest red wines of Burgundy prove that it is unquestionably worth the effort. In fact, it is the only red variety permitted in Burgundy. Highly reflective of its terroir, Pinot Noir prefers calcareous soils and a cool climate, requires low yields to achieve high quality and demands a lot of attention in the vineyard and winery. It retains even more glory as an important component of Champagne as well as on its own in France’s Loire Valley and Alsace regions. This sensational grape enjoys immense international success, most notably growing in Oregon, California and New Zealand with smaller amounts in Chile, Germany (as Spätburgunder) and Italy (as Pinot Nero).
In the Glass
Pinot Noir is all about red fruit—strawberry, raspberry and cherry with some heftier styles delving into the red or purple plum and in the other direction, red or orange citrus. It is relatively pale in color with soft tannins and a lively acidity. With age (of which the best examples can handle an astounding amount) it can develop hauntingly alluring characteristics of fresh earth, savory spice, dried fruit and truffles.
Pinot’s healthy acidity cuts through the oiliness of pink-fleshed fish like salmon and tuna but its mild mannered tannins give it enough structure to pair with all sorts of poultry: chicken, quail and especially duck. As the namesake wine of Boeuf Bourguignon, Pinot noir has proven it isn’t afraid of beef. California examples work splendidly well with barbecue and Pinot Noir is also vegetarian-friendly—most notably with any dish that features mushrooms.
For administrative purposes, the region of Beaujolais is often included in Burgundy. But it is extremely different in terms of topography, soil and climate, and the important red grape here is ultimately Gamay. Truth be told, there is a tiny amount of Gamay sprinkled around the outlying parts of Burgundy (mainly in Maconnais) but it isn’t allowed with any great significance and certainly not in any Villages or Cru level wines.