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Terrabianca Campaccio Riserva 2008
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
The first document to mention Terrabianca is dated 1085: two centuries before Dante. Located just over 35 miles from Florence towards Siena, in the heart of Chianti Classico, its gently rolling country is much the same as it was in the Middle Ages. The Guldeners have 'only' been here since 1987; although in this relatively short period of time, they have propelled the estate to the highest quality levels, entirely restoring the seventeenth-century homestead, constructing a brand new winery, and restructuring the Terrabianca range.
In 1997, the couple purchased a second property, some 44 miles southwest of the original Terrabianca nucleus: Il Tesoro di Terrabianca ("Treasure of Terrabianca"). Its 262 acres bring the Guldeners' total acreage to 334, and are a mere 6 miles from the sea, in Maremma - the new frontier of Tuscan viniculture. This recent acquisition focuses on the olive oils (from over 4,000 Frantoio, Moraiolo and Leccino olive trees, many of which some 300 years old!) and Sangiovese grapes that go into a youthful and appealing 100% varietal, La Fonte. Packaging and label for this wine (see photo) have been kept distinct from the rest of the line, although the product itself is also styled by Vittorio Fiore, Terrabianca wine-maker from day one.
One of the most iconic Italian regions for wine, scenery and history, Tuscany is the world’s most important outpost for the Sangiovese grape. Ranging in style from fruity and simple to complex and age-worthy, Sangiovese makes up a significant percentage of plantings here, with the white Trebbiano Toscano coming in second.
Within Tuscany, many esteemed wines have their own respective sub-zones, including Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The climate is Mediterranean and the topography consists mostly of picturesque rolling hills, scattered with vineyards.
Sangiovese at its simplest produces straightforward pizza-friendly wines with bright and juicy red fruit, but at its best it shows remarkable complexity and ageability. Top-quality Sangiovese-based wines can be expressive of a range of characteristics such as sour cherry, balsamic, dried herbs, leather, fresh earth, dried flowers, anise and tobacco. Brunello expresses well the particularities of vintage variations and is thus popular among collectors. Chianti is associated with tangy and food-friendly dry wines at various price points. A more recent phenomenon as of the 1970s is the “Super Tuscan”—a wine made from international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, with or without Sangiovese. These are common in Tuscany’s coastal regions like Bolgheri, Val di Cornia, Carmignano and the island of Elba.
Big, bold and modern in style, Tuscan Blends can be composed solely of international grape varieties or a mix of international and indigenous. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, are some of the most popular. They all marry with the indigenous Sangiovese very well, or can be blended together without Sangiovese—or even made on their own as single varietal bottlings!
Where did the idea come from? In the 1970s a few Tuscan winemakers had become disenchanted with Italian winemaking laws and decided to retaliate and get creative. They started making wine solely from these international grapes or adding them to Sangiovese, in differing proportions, with amazing success—and the phenomenon was born.
The most famous and revered Tuscan Blends from Italy are called “Super Tuscans.” One of the most well-known, ‘Tignanello,’ created by Antinori in 1971, is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc.
Ornellaia, established by Marchesi Lodovico Antinori in 1981, with the help of renowned agronomist Andre Tchelistcheff, remains a stellar example today; since 2002 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi has been the sole owner. It is typically a blend of about half Cabernet Sauvignon, a third Merlot and the rest filled in with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Sassicaia, another, has earned itself an extraordinary reputation and global esteem, so much so that the Sassicaia property was actually awarded its very own appellation with the 1994 vintage. It is typically 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc.