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Strub Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett 2010

Riesling from Rheinhessen, Germany
  • RP90
0% ABV
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Winemaker Notes

And a chewy bite of Riesling. Quince and cox-orange pippins and with a vanilla-bean spiciness in the middle; like a corn bisque with apple chips and a dusting of Chinese 5-spice.

Critical Acclaim

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RP 90
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Speaking as I was (see under this year's 'Soil to Soul' coverage) of potentially long-lived residually sweet Stub wines, his 2010 Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett reveals a nearly identical gross chemical analysis to the 'Soil to Soul' blend, though with marginally even higher acidity. Grapefruit, orange, quince, Persian melon, and white peach in succulent, yet almost electrically-charged profusion are palpably underlain with chalk that (at least metaphorically) corresponds to the make-up of this under-appreciated site just south of Nierstein the village. You'd be hard-pressed to find a better example of high-wire balancing or vivacious generosity of fruit even on the Mosel, and I fully expect that this outstanding value will delight for a dozen or more years.
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Strub
Strub, Rheinhessen, Germany
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In a region most recently known for high-yielding, innocuous varieties like Sylvaner and Müller-Thurgau that have tainted the reputation of German wine as a whole, Walter Strub and his son Sebastian are crafting transparent, pure expressions of Riesling on slopes along the Rhine River in Nierstein. The Strub family has been making wine in Germany’s Rheinhessen region since 1710, Walter Strub is the 11th generation of his family to produce fine Riesling of international repute from the family vineyards.

Sebastian Strub, fresh from graduating Geisenheim and an apprenticeship at Donnhoff, has begun making his mark on the winery, bringing the wines into sleek focus. Sebastian has introduced a small filtration to control oxidation, eliminated sussreserve (balance, he believes, is best achieved through blending), and accelerated fermentations, preferring a faster, warmer ‘cleaning’ of the must. Additionally, Sebastian has placed more focus on the family’s vineyard work, including the use of straw coverings between rows to prevent erosion and aid in water retention – a technique he learned while working at Donnhoff.

Rheinhessen

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Extending south from the Rheingau region to become a valley of gently rolling hills, Rheinhessen is Germany’s largest wine region. The best Rieslings of Rheinhessen, often characterized by smoky, peach and citrus aromas, come from vines grown in the red soils of the Rheinterrasse.

Riesling

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A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining easily identifiable typicity. This versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling, and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Riesling is best known in Germany and Alsace, and is also of great importance in Austria. The variety has also been particularly successful in Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys, New Zealand, Oregon, Washington, cooler regions of California, and the Finger Lakes in New York.

In the Glass

Riesling is low in alcohol, with high acidity, steely minerality, and stone fruit, spice, citrus, and floral notes. At its ripest it leans towards juicy peach and nectarine, and pineapple, while in cooler climes it is more redolent of meyer lemon, lime, and green apple. With age, Riesling can become truly revelatory, developing unique, complex aromatics, often with a hint of gasoline.

Perfect Pairings

Riesling is very versatile, enjoying the company of sweet-fleshed fish like sole, most Asian food, especially Thai and Vietnamese (bottlings with some residual sugar and low alcohol are the perfect companions for dishes with substantial spice), and freshly shucked oysters. Sweeter styles work well with fruit-based desserts.

Sommelier Secret

It can be difficult to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling, and German labeling laws do not make things any easier. Look for the world “trocken” to indicate a dry wine, or “halbtrocken” or “feinherb” for off-dry. Some producers will include a helpful sweetness scale on the back label—happily, a growing trend.

WVWGST160_2010 Item# 117703