Winemaker Notes
-Wine Advocate
Paitin is one of the most venerable Barbaresco estates in the Neive area, with a winemaking history going back to the 18th century and Benedetto Elia's purchase of two hectares in Serra Boella. Currently the estate is overseen by father Secondo and brothers Giovanni and Silvano along with consulting enologist Beppe Caviola. With 17 hectares of vineyards in the coveted Bricco di Neive section of Barbaresco and in the Roero, Paitin produces wines with uncommon flavor, silkiness and power. Southwest-facing exposition combined with low yields results in opulent, rich wines.
The Barbaresco "Sori Paitin," first bottled in 1893, is aged partly in barrique and partly in large barrels and offers a bouquet of perfumed violets, mint and dark berry fruit, with a rich and persistent finish ("Pommard-like in its solidity" - Tanzer.) 1999 was the inaugural vintage release of the "Vecchie Vigne" (old vines) Barbaresco, from vines averaging 40-50 years; it was awarded "Tre Bicchieri" from the Gambero Rosso.
Professional Ratings
Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.
A wine that most perfectly conveys the spirit and essence of its place, Barbaresco is true reflection of terroir. Its star grape, like that in the neighboring Barolo region, is Nebbiolo. Four townships within the Barbaresco zone can produce Barbaresco: the actual village of Barbaresco, as well as Neive, Treiso and San Rocco Seno d'Elvio.
Broadly speaking there are more similarities in the soils of Barbaresco and Barolo than there are differences. Barbaresco’s soils are approximately of the same two major soil types as Barolo: blue-grey marl of the Tortonion epoch, producing more fragile and aromatic characteristics, and Helvetian white yellow marl, which produces wines with more structure and tannins.
Nebbiolo ripens earlier in Barbaresco than in Barolo, primarily due to the vineyards’ proximity to the Tanaro River and lower elevations. While the wines here are still powerful, Barbaresco expresses a more feminine side of Nebbiolo, often with softer tannins, delicate fruit and an elegant perfume. Typical in a well-made Barbaresco are expressions of rose petal, cherry, strawberry, violets, smoke and spice. These wines need a few years before they reach their peak, the best of which need over a decade or longer. Bottle aging adds more savory characteristics, such as earth, iron and dried fruit.