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Sirita Merlot 2002
The amount of Taransaud oak that went into this wine has increased over the previous year becoming nearly 50% of the new oak. This is the finest oak for aging Bordeaux varietals, and is found in some of the top California wines. The wood flavors are integrated into the fruit and help the wine to develop in a classical manner. This is the first vintage of Merlot for me from this vineyard. I located it thanks to Randy Lewis, of Lewis Cellars, who had used it up to this year for his reserve Merlot program. The 2001 vintage was relatively even and moderate, allowing the grapes to develop complex flavors, though we dropped a little fruit around veraison due to a temporary cool spell.
The wine is bolder and denser than most California Merlots and can be appreciated with steak, roast beef, venison, spareribs and other robust meats. The vintage of 2001 yielded around 560 cases of Merlot.
Larry has purchased grapes from a number of outstanding sources in the Napa valley, from sites on Mount Veeder, Oakville, Spring Mountain, Napa and St. Helena. His growers have included David Abreu, Jaeger Vineyards and the Garvey Family of Flora Springs. He supervises the harvest of his fruit, the decision of when and what to pick being the most crucial decision of the year, and oversees every aspect of the fermentation, aging and assemblage of the wines bearing his daughter's name.
Despite his extensive list of accomplishments in the restaurant and wine industry, including an award for the International Best Sommelier in French Wines and Spirits won in Paris, Larry is firmly dedicated to the proposition that wine should be enjoyed with friends and family in a non-intimidating environment. He attributes this to his own upbringing in which he was encouraged to enjoy wine with food. None of the wines currently available have been fined or filtered.
One of the world's most highly regarded regions for wine production as well as tourism, the Napa Valley was responsible for bringing worldwide recognition to California winemaking. In the 1960's, a few key wine families settled the area and hedged their bets on the valley's world-class winemaking potential—and they were right.
The Napa wine industry really took off in the 1980's, when producers scooped up vineyard lands and planted vines throughout the county. A number of wineries emerged, and today Napa is home to hundreds of producers ranging from boutique to corporate. Cabernet Sauvignon is definitely the grape of choice here, with many winemakers also focusing on Bordeaux blends. Napa whites are usually Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Within the Napa Valley lie many smaller sub-AVAs that claim specific characteristics based on situation, slope and soil. Farthest south and coolest from the influence of the San Pablo Bay is Carneros, followed by Coombsville to its northeast and then Yountville, Oakville and Rutherford. Above those is the warm St. Helena and the valley's newest and hottest AVA, Calistoga. These areas follow the valley floor and are known generally for creating rich, dense, complex and smooth reds with good aging potential. The mountain sub appellations, nestled on the slopes overlooking the valley AVAs, include Stags Leap District, Atlas Peak, Chiles Valley (farther east), Howell Mountain, Mt. Veeder, Spring Mountain District and Diamond Mountain District. Wines from the mountain regions are often more structured and firm, benefiting from a lot of time in the bottle to evolve and soften.
An easy-going red variety with generous fruit and a supple texture, Merlot’s subtle tannins make it perfect for early drinking and allow it to pair with a wide range of foods. But the grape also has enough stuffing to make serious, world-renowned wines. One simply needs to look to Bordeaux to understand Merlot's status as a noble variety. On the region’s Right Bank, in St. Emilion and Pomerol, it dominates in blends with Cabernet Franc. On the Left Bank in the Medoc, it plays a supporting role to (and helps soften) Cabernet Sauvignon—in both cases resulting in some of the longest-lived and highest-quality wines in the world. They are often emulated elsewhere in Bordeaux-style blends, particularly in California’s Napa Valley, where Merlot also frequently shines on its own.
In the Glass
Merlot is known for its soft, silky texture and approachable flavors of ripe plum, red and black cherry and raspberry. In a cool climate, you may find earthier notes alongside dried herbs, tobacco and tar, while Merlot from warmer regions is generally more straightforward and fruit-focused.
Lamb with Merlot is an ideal match—the sweetness of the meat picks up on the sweet fruit flavors of the wine to create a harmonious balance. Merlot’s gentle tannins allow for a hint of spice and its medium weight and bright acidity permit the possibilities of simple pizza or pasta with red sauce—overall, an extremely versatile food wine.
Since the release of the 2004 film Sideways, Merlot's repuation has taken a big hit, and more than a decade later has yet to fully recover, though it is on its way. What many viewers didn't realize was that as much as Miles derided the variety, the prized wine of his collection—a 1961 Château Cheval Blanc—is made from a blend of Merlot with Cabernet Franc.