Sine Qua Non Kolibri 2008
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Robert
Parker
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2008 Kolibri continues the brilliant success Krankl has had with dry whites. As one can see when visiting his cellars, he is now using the fashionable concrete eggs as part of the white wines- upbringing. About 25% new French oak is used, and the balance is older barrels. Most of the fruit is from estate vineyards, with about 18% purchased from the Bien Nacido Vineyard. The final blend is 69% Roussanne and 31% Viognier. As is found in all Krankl's whites, the 2008 Kolibri possesses extraordinary aromatics. Abundant notes of marmalade, honeysuckle, white flowers, and candied citrus are accompanied by good acidity, beautiful intensity and purity, and a layered, fresh, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel. The wine is intense, but never heavy or overbearing. It is impossible to estimate which vintages will age well. I recently had the 2001 Albino and 2002 Lil- E and both were still brilliant. Other whites seem to go through a more funky stage from which they are unlikely to rebound. Consequently, as good as they are, I tend to drink them during their first several years of life.
Sine Qua Non has its own winemaking facility in Ventura, California not far from the Santa Barbara vineyards where the fruit is sourced from. In the last few years Manfred and his wife, Elaine, have begun creating their own vineyards dedicated to Rhone varietals. Their winemaking philosophy is to work in very small batches, gravity flow, natural yeasts (unless a fermentation problem is anticipated), long lees aging for the whites and repeated racking for the reds to open them up. This is a modified explanation of a very dedicated and artistic approach to winemaking. The wines are simultaneously very rich and elegant, superbly balanced and thoroughly harmonious with food, never overwhelming.
Full-bodied and flavorful, white Rhône blends originate from France’s Rhône Valley. Today these blends are also becoming popular in other regions. Typically some combination of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier form the basis of a white Rhône blend with varying degrees of flexibility depending on the exact appellation. Somm Secret—In the Northern Rhône, blends of Marsanne and Roussanne are common but the south retains more variety. Marsanne, Roussanne as well as Bourboulenc, Clairette, Picpoul and Ugni Blanc are typical.
With a dry and mild climate cooled significantly by moist ocean fog and breezes, Santa Barbara County is a grape-grower’s dream. Part of the larger Central Coast appellation, Santa Barbara is home to Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley. The conditions here provide an opportunity for nearly effortless production of high-quality cool-climate Central Coast wines. This is also the site of the 2004 film Sideways, which caused Pinot Noir’s popularity to skyrocket and brought new acclaim to the region.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the stars of Santa Barbara, producing wines marked by racy acidity. Crisp Sauvignon Blanc and savory Syrah are also important. The region is home to many young and enthusiastic winemakers eager to experiment with less common varieties including Chenin Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Trousseau Gris, Gamay and Cabernet Franc, making it an exciting area to watch.