Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
1999 Icarus: Still fresh and lively, and much younger tasting than the 1998 Antagonists or the 1995 Red Handed, this wine was certainly the biggest of the early vintages from Sine Qua Non’s Grenache program. The label says the alcohol is at 14.9%, but there is a freshness and elegance to the wine (80% Grenache, 18% Syrah and 2% Viognier) that would suggest much lower alcohols, for those who foolishly as well as erroneously equate finesse with lower alcohols. Structured, still deep ruby/purple-tinged, with fresh raspberry and black cherry fruit and some loamy soil notes, as well as hints of barbecue smoke and pepper, the wine is full-bodied, ripe, yet still somewhat tightly knit, suggesting that better things are yet to come. This obviously can be drunk now, but I wouldn’t be surprised to see it improve over the next several years and last for at least another decade.
Rating: 93+
California is a winemaking colossus; by itself it is the fourth largest producer in the world. Red wine accounts for 56% of the total by volume, and red grapes 63% of total acres planted. In addition, a number of California red wines are heralded as being among the most prestigious and sought-after wines in the world.
While the state’s incredibly diverse geography, soils and microclimates allow for a wide array of styles, the key factor unifying California red wine is the abundance of sunshine and a long, consistent growing season. This leads to well-developed fruit marked both by impressive ripeness and balancing acidity.
The state’s most famous red wine region, of course, is Napa Valley, where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns as king. But California boasts a wealth of other impressive appellations. The much larger and climatically varied Sonoma County also produces world class California Cabernet, along with wonderful examples of California Pinot Noir and Zinfandel.
Fine versions of Cabernet and Zinfandel hail from Paso Robles as well, which is also gaining fame with Rhone varietals like Syrah and Grenache. As for Pinot Noir, terrific examples can be found from AVA’s such as Anderson Valley, Carneros, Santa Lucia Highlands and Sta. Rita Hills. Wineries in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties are making wonderful Syrahs, and the Sierra Foothill appellations are proving to be an experimental hotbed, with Italian and Spanish varietals employed to great effect.
This of course is a mere sketch. The subject of California red wine is as deep and broad as an ocean, and absolutely a joy to explore!