Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Jeb Dunnuck
I’m getting down to my last few bottles of the 2013 Grenache Female, which has been incredibly consistent and satisfying over the past 5-7 years and just about impossible to resist. A blend of 78% Grenache, 19% Syrah, and the rest Mourvèdre that’s mostly from the Eleven Confessions Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills, it offers a beautiful, smile-inducing perfume of black raspberries, black cherries, spring flowers, camphor, and spice that develops additional complexity with time in the glass. Impeccably balanced, full-bodied, and opulent, yet also weightless and elegant, this is a thrilling example of Grenache that could come from no one else. Feel free to drink bottles any time over the coming 15-20 years or more.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Manfred's 2013 Grenache Female checks in as a blend of 78% Grenache, 19% Syrah and 3% Mourvèdre that is mostly from his Eleven Confessions estate vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills, yet has smaller portions from his Cumulus, The Third Twin and Bien Nacido vineyards. Seeing just over 24 months in a mix of demi-muids, 300-liter Hog Heads and barrique, it has a sensational bouquet of spring flowers, black raspberries, black cherries, violets, licorice and camphor. Reminding me of a great vintage of Raymond Usseglio's Cuvée Imperiale, this full-bodied, elegant Grenache is impeccably balanced, has a full and layered mid-palate (which is missing from just about every other Grenache made in California), and sweet tannin on the finish. It's almost impervious to air and didn't budge an inch over the three days I followed this bottle. It will cruise for over two decades.
California is a winemaking colossus; by itself it is the fourth largest producer in the world. Red wine accounts for 56% of the total by volume, and red grapes 63% of total acres planted. In addition, a number of California red wines are heralded as being among the most prestigious and sought-after wines in the world.
While the state’s incredibly diverse geography, soils and microclimates allow for a wide array of styles, the key factor unifying California red wine is the abundance of sunshine and a long, consistent growing season. This leads to well-developed fruit marked both by impressive ripeness and balancing acidity.
The state’s most famous red wine region, of course, is Napa Valley, where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns as king. But California boasts a wealth of other impressive appellations. The much larger and climatically varied Sonoma County also produces world class California Cabernet, along with wonderful examples of California Pinot Noir and Zinfandel.
Fine versions of Cabernet and Zinfandel hail from Paso Robles as well, which is also gaining fame with Rhone varietals like Syrah and Grenache. As for Pinot Noir, terrific examples can be found from AVA’s such as Anderson Valley, Carneros, Santa Lucia Highlands and Sta. Rita Hills. Wineries in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties are making wonderful Syrahs, and the Sierra Foothill appellations are proving to be an experimental hotbed, with Italian and Spanish varietals employed to great effect.
This of course is a mere sketch. The subject of California red wine is as deep and broad as an ocean, and absolutely a joy to explore!