Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2013 Aa blend is revisited this issue for a checkup. As often happens, especially with Sigalas, this has actually improved with a year in the cellar. Tightly wound and showing tension on the finish, it is solid and focused, with a bright feel. It is drinking pretty well now, but might still improve. In that regard, some three days later, it was showing no sign of decline. It actually seemed better. It showed wonderful tension on the finish and solidity in the mid-palate. It should age well for the rest of the decade, at the least.
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Wine Spectator
A well-crafted and juicy version, with luscious flavors of ripe melon, red peach, gooseberry and quince. Seductive, lightly smoky notes and a creamy element linger on the complex finish. A textbook Santorini white. Drink now through 2022. Top Value Pick
A crisp white variety full of zippy acidity, Assyrtiko comes from the volcanic Greek island of Santorini but is grown increasingly wide throughout the country today. Assyrtiko’s popularity isn’t hard to explain: it retains its acid and mineral profile in a hot climate, stands alone or blends well with other grapes and can also withstand some age. Somm Secret—On the fairly barren, windswept Mediterranean island of Santorini, Assyrtiko vines must be cultivated in low baskets, pinned to the ground. The shape serves to preserve moisture and protect the growing grapes in its interior.
A picturesque Mediterranean nation with a rich wine culture dating back to ancient times, Greece has so much more to offer than just retsina. Between the mainland and the country’s many islands, a wealth of Greek wine styles exists, made mostly from Greece’s plentiful indigenous varieties. After centuries of adversity after Ottoman rule, the modern Greek wine industry took off in the late 20th century with an influx of newly trained winemakers and investments in winemaking technology.
The climate—generally hot Mediterranean—can vary a bit with latitude and elevation, and is mostly moderated by cool maritime breezes. Drought can be an issue for Greek wine during the long, dry summers, sometimes necessitating irrigation.
Over 300 indigenous grapes have been identified throughout Greece, and though not all of them are suitable for wine production, future decades will likely see a significant revival and refinement of many of these native Greek wine varieties. Assyrtiko, the crisp, saline Greek wine variety of the island of Santorini, is one of the most important and popular white wine varieties, alongside Roditis, Robola, Moschofilero, and Malagousia. Muscat is also widely grown for both sweet and dry wines. Prominent red wine varieties include full-bodied and fruity Agiorghitiko, native to Nemea; Macedonia’s savory, tannic Xinomavro; and Mavrodaphne, used commonly to produce a Port-like fortified wine in the Peloponnese.