Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
Wake up, acid heads, your wine has come. Very cool, with delicate yellow grapefruit and wildflower aromas, this is a diamond-bright and super-stony dry riesling with a dazzling racy acidity and incredible precision. Extremely long, salty lime finish with glacial clarity.
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Vinous
The 2023 Riesling Vulkangestein is essentially half Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg and half Bockenauer Stromberg, from the vines that do not quite make it into the GGs. Slight smoke spells some reduction, with wet stone only adding to that smokiness. Precision, minerality, poise and purity are all evident in this sleek package, with the mid-palate still suffused with some yeasty funk. It dashes with absolute focus towards the finish, so cool, so bright, so lemony. This is a whole lot of wine at very moderate alcohol. (Bone-dry)
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.