Winemaker Notes
This wine is smoky with mineral aromas and is very complex. It is intense, straight and elegant.
Professional Ratings
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Vinous
The 2022 Riesling Vulkangestein is a blend half from Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg and half from the Bockenauer Stromberg, from 20-30-year-old vines that do not yet make it into the GGs, an honor that goes to the 40-50-year-old vines. The nose still has some yeasty funk, but underneath a fruity clarity becomes apparent, almost with a tropical overtone of pineapple. The very slender mouth feel, however, is taut, stony, salty, with an edge of white pepper and nutmeg. With really subtle spice on a very lemony, driven taut and almost tingling palate. Spicy, pure, zesty and racy. (Bone-dry)
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Wine Enthusiast
This bursts with a vibrant mix of citrus zest, green apple and sliced-pear flavors, but only after the leesy, brioche note airs out. It is supported by powerful acidity, which suggests that you should wait several years. Mineral-infused finish. Best after 2025.
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Wine Spectator
For fans of the electric, very precise style, this vivid, sleek white offers a taut frame jolted by piercing acidity. The modest core of flowers, crunchy pear and citrus pulp is filigreed with notes of lime zest and blossoms through the lingering finish. Drink now through 2028. 100 cases imported.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.