Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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Vinous
The 2022 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Kabinett is from the poor slate-based soils because Fröhlich believes that slate and Kabinett go together. It was harvested across three terraces where the vineyard turns a corner towards the southwest. It benefited from the evening sun and racier acidity than the fruit from the purely south-facing parcels. This is what is destined for Kabinett in Tim Fröhlich’s eyes. There is still a little sulfur on the nose, but underneath, there is electricity. This crackles with acidity, super-slender, light, vivid and oh-so-bright. It was harvested early from a site that guarantees proper ripeness so the wine can get away with its sharp acidity. It's very light and almost impossible to split. Once spat, the lemon zestiness remains vivid, pervasive and thrilling.
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Wine Enthusiast
Complex and expansive, showing apricot pastry, orange and spice aromas and flavors, a lively structure and fine concentration. Citrus and tropical fruit notes linger on a well-defined finish.
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Wine Spectator
A bright, fresh, succulent version, with loads of fleshy fruit -- apricot, white peach, mango -- flanked by fine-grained minerals. Offers almost prickly tension, with tangy acidity that powers through, plus a hint of smoke on the balanced, off-dry finish. A good version of the off-dry style. Drink now through 2030. 50 cases imported.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.