Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
I love the way the cool, citrusy and ripe stone fruit aromas are intertwined with the smokiness in this sensationally precise and filigreed dry riesling. Enormous flinty energy that extends into every corner of your palate, together with lime and bergamot freshness. Enormously long, pure and salty on the medium-bodied, almost perfectly balanced palate.
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Vinous
The 2023 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Grosses Gewächs 2022, from blue Devonian slate, has immediate spice and slate savor, like citrus squeezed on dry stone—fragrant, lifted, soaring. The palate is as fine as a flexible blade, sharp and precise. Nothing here is about power or muscle. Everything is about grace, direction and finesse. If you want definition without weight, this is your wine. The citric dimensions reverberate and zestiness rules. What poise, what elegance. Wow. (Bone-dry) Barrel Sample: 96-98
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
