Scarbolo IL Ramato 2017
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James
Suckling
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James Suckling
Finally, somebody made a cool rosé from pinot grigio that isn’t heavy or tannic, but joyfully fresh, creamy and silky at the finish. Could this be the next Cloudy-Bay-type wine-brand sensation?
Scarbolo is a boutique family winery established in 1982 and today helmed by its third generation. Finding its nest in Friuli – Italy’s northeastern-most region, embraced by the Alps and the Adriatic Sea – the Winery pays homage to the uniquely gifted white wines its Land offers, focusing on the little known heritage of Pinot Grigio.
Originating from Grave, one of its lesser known appellations, the philosophy and wines of Valter Scarbolo embody a spirit of innovation, progress and at times rebellion, while proudly expressing the elegance, persistence and, most importantly, balance so unique to the Friulian terroir.
Today led by daughter and son Lara and Mattia, the Winery, in a metaphorical fashion of the growing Wheels in its logo, carries forward with dynamism and consolidates the original integrity, while shaping a contemporary, idyllic, and all-embracing credo.
Whether it’s playful and fun or savory and serious, most rosé today is not your grandmother’s White Zinfandel, though that category remains strong. Pink wine has recently become quite trendy, and this time around it’s commonly quite dry. Since the pigment in red wines comes from keeping fermenting juice in contact with the grape skins for an extended period, it follows that a pink wine can be made using just a brief period of skin contact—usually just a couple of days. The resulting color depends on grape variety and winemaking style, ranging from pale salmon to deep magenta.
The source of some of Italy’s best and most distinctive white wines, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is where Italian, Germanic and Slavic cultures converge. The styles of wines produced in this region of Italy's far north-east reflect this merging of cultures. Often shortened to just “Friuli,” the area is divided into many distinct subzones, including Friuli Grave, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Collio Goriziano and Carso. The flat valley of Friuli Grave is responsible for a large proportion of the region’s wine production, particularly the approachable Pinot grigio and the popular Prosecco. The best vineyard locations are often on hillsides, as in Colli Orientali del Friuli or Collio. In general, Friuli boasts an ideal climate for viticulture, with warm sunny days and chilly nights, which allow grapes to ripen slowly and evenly.
In Colli Orientali, the specialty is crisp, flavorful white wine made from indigenous varieities like Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano), Ribolla gialla and Malvasia Istriana.
Red wines, though far less common here, can be quite good, especially when made from the deeply colored, rustic Refosco variety. In Collio Goriziano, which abutts Slovenia, many of the same varieties are planted. International varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc are also common, but they tend to be Loire-like in style with herbaceous character and mellow tannins. Carso’s star grape is the red Teranno, notable for being rich in iron content and historically consumed for health purposes. It has an earthy, meaty profile and is often confused with the distinct variety Refosco.