Sandrone Dolcetto d'Alba 2018
2018 Dolcetto shows the hallmarks of the Sandrone style. It is a young wine of complex and beautiful personality, with great aromatics. The color is alive and dense: ruby accompanied by elegant violet reflections. The fragrance is varied, firstly of fruit: pleasant hints of maraschino cherry, plum and small red fruits. This is followed by spicy notes of cinnamon, which are accentuated and harmonized as the wine evolves in the glass. The flavor is dry, intense, vigorous and moderately warm, and concludes with a pleasant final hint of almonds. This Dolcetto d’Alba is an eclectic wine, able to accompany many of the various dishes of a meal.
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
I published a review for this wine last year tasted from barrel and am offering a repeat review here. The Luciano Sandrone 2018 Dolcetto d'Alba has fleshed out over the past 12 months. It offers a generous disposition with blackberry, plum and dried cherry. This vintage has produced tight and streamlined results overall, but the fruit wraps over the palate in rich, pleasurable layers. The blend of fruit used here comes from Monforte d'Alba (Pe Mol and Castelletto), Novello (Ravera and Rocche di San Nicola) and Barolo (Rivassi).
A clean, bright red with cherry and lemon character. Medium body. Delicious finish.
Luciano Sandrone is one of the most iconic producers in Barolo, and his is both a well known and extraordinary story. He started to learn viticulture at the age of 14 or 15, and after years of work as a cellarman he depleted his life savings and purchased his first vineyard on the Cannubi hill in 1977, though he could only manage his land on the weekends while he continued to work. He made his first vintage in 1978, in the garage of his parents, and then spent years refining his ideas about how to make a wine of distinction and utmost quality that respected the traditions of Barolo while incorporating new ideas and understanding about viticulture and vinification. He made every vintage until 1999 at home, until the winery he constructed in 1998 was ready for use.
Sandrone's wines are sometimes described as straddling the modern and traditional styles in the region: elegant, attractive and easy to appreciate right from their first years in bottle, but with no less power and structure than traditional Barolos. Along with the extremely low yields in the vineyard and an obsessive attention to training, pruning and harvesting, Sandrone has a very rational approach in the cellar. This approach, however, is also unique and outside of simple classification: Sandrone subjects his wines to medium-length maceration period, shorter than traditional, but makes limited use of new oak in the maturation process, which takes place in 500 liter tonneaux, all signs of a more traditional approach in the cellar. The entire range of wines, all limited in production, are jewels of impeccably balanced concentration and precision, and the ability to age for long periods of time.
In a sense, “Alba” is a catch-all phrase, and includes the declassified Nebbiolo wines made in Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as the Nebbiolo grown just outside of these regions’ borders. In fact, Nebbiolo d’Alba is a softer, less tannic and more fruit-forward wine ready to drink within just a couple years of bottling. It is a great place to start if you want to begin to understand the grape. Likewise, the even broader category of Langhe Nebbiolo offers approachable and value-driven options as well.
Barbera, planted alongside Nebbiolo in the surrounding hills, and referred to as Barbera d’Alba, takes on a more powerful and concentrated personality compared to its counterparts in Asti.
Dolcetto is ubiquitous here and, known as Dolcetto d'Alba, can be found casually served alongside antipasti on the tables of Alba’s cafes and wine bars.
Not surprisingly, given its location, Alba is recognized as one of Italy’s premiere culinary destinations and is the home of the fall truffle fair, which attracts visitors from worldwide every year.
An easy drinking red with soft fruity flavors—but catchy tannins, Dolcetto is often enjoyed in its native Piedmont on a casual weekday night, or for apertivo (the canonical Piedmontese pre-dinner appetizer hour). Somm Secret—In most of Piedmont, easy-ripening Dolcetto is relegated to the secondary sites—the best of which are reserved for the king variety: Nebbiolo. However, in the Dogliani zone it is the star of the show, and makes a more serious style of Dolcetto, many of which can improve with cellar time.