Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate 1999
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Offers wonderful aromas of sweet berries, flowers and sandalwood. Full-bodied, with silky, fine tannins and a long finish. Love the texture to this refined, attractive wine. Another one to drink but will improve with age.—'99 Piedmont blind retrospective (2009).
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Roberto Voerzio roots himself in the vineyards of Piemonte. Working beside both his father and grandfather, the beauty of La Morrainspired Roberto to pioneer for new pastures. Since age 20, the young man was aware of the prestige that came with his region, as well as the untapped potential unforeseen with La Morra and greater Langhe.
Now a living legend of Piemonte, Roberto founded his philosophy on 3 pillars: Prime Location, Natural Farming, and the Unique maintenance of vineyards -low yields, extreme selection (green harvest) with high density plantation. He strives for a wine that only finds perfection in its rarity.
“One of the central tenets of the Voerzio approach,” says Antonio Galloni, “is a steadfast belief that the relationship between low yields and high quality is always linear.”
Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.
The center of the production of the world’s most exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo, the Barolo wine region includes five core townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. The landscape of Barolo, characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Its wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, have a deceptively light garnet color but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. In a well-made Barolo wine, one can expect to find complexity and good evolution with notes of, for example, strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.
There are two predominant soil types here, which distinguish Barolo from the lesser surrounding areas. Compact and fertile Tortonian sandy marls define the vineyards farthest west and at higher elevations. Typically the Barolo wines coming from this side, from La Morra and Barolo, can be approachable relatively early on in their evolution and represent the “feminine” side of Barolo, often closer in style to Barbaresco with elegant perfume and fresh fruit.
On the eastern side of the Barolo wine region, Helvetian soils of compressed sandstone and chalks are less fertile, producing wines with intense body, power and structured tannins. This more “masculine” style comes from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The township of Castiglione Falletto covers a spine with both soil types.
The best Barolo wines need 10-15 years before they are ready to drink, and can further age for several decades.