Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
Beautiful clarity of aromas in the grapefruit and lime-peel zone. Then abundant stony, flinty, wet rock complexity. Immensely fresh palate, this is full of life and has a very long, seamless run to a dry, flavorsome finish. Drink or hold.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Mature Vine Riesling is about as unique a vision of Riesling as you're likely to encounter now that dry Mosel Rieslings routinely eclipse 11% alcohol. This is only 10%, resulting in a light-bodied, crisp wine. It's marked by green apple and citrus notes plus hints of something aromatically akin to vegetable or machine oil. Resolutely dry and unyielding on the tart finish, it's a wine that reminds me of some young Hunter Sémillons, needing considerable time to blossom.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
Home to the globe’s most southerly vineyards, which are cultivated below the 45th parallel, Central Otago is a true one-of-a-kind wine growing region, but not only because of its extreme location.
Central Otago is more dependent on one single variety than any other region in New Zealand—and it isn’t Sauvignon blanc. They don’t even make Sauvignon blanc there.
Pinot Noir claims nearly 75% of the region’s vineyards with Pinot Gris coming in a far second place and Riesling behind it. This is also New Zealand’s only wine region with a continental climate, giving it more diurnal and seasonal temperature shifts than any other.
The subregion of Bannockburn has enjoyed the most success historically but the area’s exceptional growth has moved to the promising regions of Cromwell/Bendigo and Alexandra districts. Central Otago is known for its fruity and full-bodied Pinot noir. With the freedom to experiment here, growers and winemakers are easily exhibiting the area’s great potential.