Winemaker Notes
Liguria's rare red wines often feature Sangiovese imported from nearby Tuscany or Granaccia (Grenache) from southern France, but other Ligurian reds spotlight indigenous grapes planted only in very localized areas. Nothing could be truer of Crovino, a dark-skinned red grown, exclusively by the Ruffino family of Punta Crena, in their vineyards overlooking the seaside town of Varigotti. Crovino gives low yields, and its berries tend to fall to the ground upon achieving full ripeness, inciting other growers to tear out their vines in favor of less fussy varieties.
Fortunately, you can still enjoy a taste of Varigotti history through this delightfully fresh, spicy, medium-bodied red scented of tart blackberries, wild mint, and other aromatic herbs you would find on a hike through Liguria’s coastal mountains.
It shines alongside regional pasta dishes—pansotti with salsa alle noci (walnut sauce) is a classic—or cuisine from Liguria’s mountainous interior, such as roast rabbit with taggiasca olives and wild herbs.
Disenchanted with Italian winemaking laws in the 1970s, a few rebellious Tuscan winemakers decided to get creative. Instead of following tradition, to bottle Sangiovese by itself, they started blending it with international varieties, namely Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah in differing proportions and with amazing success. However, some Tuscan Blends don’t even include Sangiovese. Somm Secret—The suffix –aia in Italian modifies a word in much the same way –y acts in English. For example, a place with many stones (sassi) becomes Sassicaia. While not all Super Tuscan producer names end in –aia, they all share a certain coy nomenclature.
Forming a crescent along Italy’s northwestern Mediterranean coast, Liguria is one of the country’s smallest regions. Though its ports, Genoa and Savona have welcomed foreign influence for centuries, the region today is experiencing a fresh interest in its own indigenous varieties. Liguria commits large efforts to the white Vermentino (also called Pigato) and the red varieties Rossese, Sangiovese and Dolcetto (also called Ormeasco in Liguria).
Liguria has no shortage of dizzyingly steep, coastal vineyards. On its eastern end in Cinqueterre, Vermentino grows along cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. On its west, bordering France, terraced, seaside vineyards are home to Rossese di Dolceacqua, Liguria’s powerful yet highly aromatic red.