Philippe Livera Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Village 2016
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Wilfred
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Pairs well with roast lamb, beef in sauce, and truffle dishes.
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Wine & Spirits
Here’s a lieu-dit that performs at the level of a premier cru. Its stature might be due to the 70-year-old vines growing adjacent to Damien Livera’s winery, or to the fact that the grapes don’t go very far before they land in the cold underground cellar, where they develop into a resonant baritone of Gevrey. It’s a wine of meaty intensity, all about game when it isn’t about pressed flowers, with a tannic grip you can breathe as it fades into earthy complexity.
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Wilfred Wong of Wine.com
COMMENTARY: Gevrey-Chambertins are often some of the most powerful and black-fruit of Burgundies. The 2016 Domaine Philippe Livera Clos Village is a case in point. TASTING NOTES: This wine is powerful, yet reserve, and offers a generosity on the palate. Its aromas and flavors of heroic black fruits, earth, and savory spices should pair beautifully with a rotisserie leg of lamb. (Tasted: March 18, 2019, San Francisco, CA)
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Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
This small village is home to the Grands Crus in the farthest northerly stretches of Côte de Nuits and is famous for some of the deepest and firmest Burgundian Pinot Noir.
Gevrey boasts nine Grands Crus, the best of which are arguably Le Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. As with all of the fragmented vineyards of Burgundy, it isn’t easy to differentiate between the two, which are situated adjacent with Clos de Bèze slightly further up the hill than Le Chambertin. Clos de Bèze has a shallower soil and if you’re really counting, may produce wines less intense but more likely to charm. Some compare Le Chambertin in both power and plentitude only to the prized Romanée-Conti Grand Cru farther south in Vosne-Romanée.
Two other Grands Crus vineyards, Mazis-Chambertin (also written Mazy-) and Latricières-Chambertin command almost as much regard as Le Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. The upper part of Mazy, called Les Mazis Haut is the best and Latricières-Chambertin offers an abundance of juicy fruit and a silky texture in the warmer vintages.
Other Grands Crus are Ruchottes-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Mazoyères-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin and Chapelle-Chambertin.
The most respected Pinot Noir wines from Gevrey-Chambertin are robust and powerful but at the same time, velvety and expressive: black fruit, black liquorice and chocolate come into play. After some time in the bottle, the wines are harmonious with bright and sometimes candied fruit, and aromas of musk, truffle and forest floor. These have staying power.