Winemaker Notes
That perfume. So much, so pretty, so floral. Rose petals, potpourri, raspberry, maraschino cherry. Glossy feel in the palate but dusted with fine spice, alpine herbs and a light chalkiness. Knife edge tension of gently sweet fruit, slender tannin and cranberry-like acidity. So very delicate, refreshing, fine and light, finishing with gentle building pucker. It’s got a pinosity of sorts, and feels frisky and so very refreshing to drink. Killer.
The Fugazi Vineyard was allegedly named from a quirk – the post-hardcore punk band Fugazi was playing on Taras and Amber’s car stereo as they arrived at the vineyard, which sits on a rise between the Onkaparinga River Gorge and Blewitt Springs in McLaren Vale.
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
From 1947 bush vines on ironstone and gravelly red clay. Taut with savoury, mineral intensity, red apple skin hints and a pick of tannin to its al dente redcurrant and cranberry fruit. Subtle orange blossom water, herbal, spice, earth and charcuterie notes, with a bloody tang. Tapering, tightly wound, still unfurling. Spent up to 80 days on skins with 80% whole bunches; aged six months in old French barriques.
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Wine Enthusiast
Former punk rocker Taras Ochota is one of the most renowned artisanal producers in Australia, having carved a reputation from his hilly spot in the Basket Range subregion of the Adelaide Hills for solid, highly characterful wines. Grenache is his calling card, and Fugazi one of his most celebrated wines. This vintage is confident and complex yet approachable. It sings notes of brambly fruit and balsamic vinegar with fistfuls of wildflowers and savory herbs. The grip of skinsy, raspy tannins on the tongue comes as a surprise at first, but then the juicy red fruit rushes in, taunting you to take another sip.
Grenache thrives in any warm, Mediterranean climate where ample sunlight allows its clusters to achieve full phenolic ripeness. While Grenache's birthplace is Spain (there called Garnacha), today it is more recognized as the key player in the red blends of the Southern Rhône, namely Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côtes du Rhône and its villages. Somm Secret—The Italian island of Sardinia produces bold, rustic, single varietal Grenache (there called Cannonau). California, Washington and Australia have achieved found success with Grenache, both flying solo and in blends.
Known for opulent red wines with intense power and concentration, McLaren Vale is home to perhaps the most “classic” style of Australian Shiraz. Vinified on its own or in Rhône Blends, these hot-climate wines are deeply colored and high in extract with signature hints of dark chocolate and licorice. Cabernet Sauvignon is also produced in a similar style.
Whites, often made from Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc tend to be opulent and full of tropical, stone and citrus fruit.