Winemaker Notes
That perfume. So much, so pretty, so floral. Rose petals, potpourri, raspberry, maraschino cherry. Glossy feel in the palate but dusted with fine spice, alpine herbs and a light chalkiness. Knife edge tension of gently sweet fruit, slender tannin and cranberry-like acidity. So very delicate, refreshing, fine and light, finishing with gentle building pucker. It’s got a pinosity of sorts, and feels frisky and so very refreshing to drink. Killer.
The Fugazi Vineyard was allegedly named from a quirk – the post-hardcore punk band Fugazi was playing on Taras and Amber’s car stereo as they arrived at the vineyard, which sits on a rise between the Onkaparinga River Gorge and Blewitt Springs in McLaren Vale.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
An attractive fusion of roses and raspberries on the nose with freshness and purity. A hint of wild herbs, too. The palate delivers a silky, slightly round central core of strawberries and wild raspberries. Quite powerful and subtly smoky. It expands long into the finish. Delicious now, but it’ll be even better in a couple of years.
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Wine & Spirits
Taras and Amber Ochota make this from 68-year-old vines growing on a rise in Blewitt Springs. It’s not what you might expect from McLaren grenache, though it is what you might expect from the winery: dynamic, crazy-delicious wine. They ferment it with 80 percent whole clusters, starting with seven days of cold maceration, then allow the fruit to warm up so it begins to ferment on its own, leaving the juice in contact with the grape skins for 80 days. Bottled after six months resting in older French barriques, the wine feels completely knit, light and fresh, with scents of green peppercorn, green olive and delicate red fruit ghosting a trail of flavor that draws you back to the glass—a kind of salty, spicy magnetism. Deanna Gonnella, a chef on staff who wrote about her recent conversion to grenache (Fall 2018), suggested serving this with lamb braised in white wine, mint, chile peppers, red onions and a late addition of steamed clams.
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Wine Spectator
Distinctive, featuring aromatic white pepper, dried lavender and forest floor details that linger in the background, as fresh raspberry and cherry flavors at the core emerge on the finish. Set on a sleek frame, with a thread of fresh acidity. Drink now through 2028.
Grenache thrives in any warm, Mediterranean climate where ample sunlight allows its clusters to achieve full phenolic ripeness. While Grenache's birthplace is Spain (there called Garnacha), today it is more recognized as the key player in the red blends of the Southern Rhône, namely Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côtes du Rhône and its villages. Somm Secret—The Italian island of Sardinia produces bold, rustic, single varietal Grenache (there called Cannonau). California, Washington and Australia have achieved found success with Grenache, both flying solo and in blends.
Known for opulent red wines with intense power and concentration, McLaren Vale is home to perhaps the most “classic” style of Australian Shiraz. Vinified on its own or in Rhône Blends, these hot-climate wines are deeply colored and high in extract with signature hints of dark chocolate and licorice. Cabernet Sauvignon is also produced in a similar style.
Whites, often made from Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc tend to be opulent and full of tropical, stone and citrus fruit.