Mommessin Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2002

Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2002 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has long been one of my favorite vintages from this monopole, and at 13-years-old it shows no signs of losing that place in my heart. The bouquet is just so pure and refined, reminiscent of the 2005 in some way, albeit with not quite the same intensity. However, the detail is breathtaking - one of those bouquets that whisks you straight to its place of birth, within those ancient stone walls in Morey-Saint-Denis. The palate is brilliantly balanced, utterly refined with lace-like tannin, perfectly pitched acidity and a gentle build in the mouth towards a glorious, saline-tinged finish that hangs like the final piano chord in an empty hall. Wondrous - perhaps the high point of Pitiot's tenure?

A big red, round and sappy, exhibiting black cherry, kirsch and sweet spice aromas and flavors. Picks up some chocolate and smoke midpalate, with the richness and exuberant fruit of the vintage. Fine length; needs time to absorb the oak and tannins.