Winemaker Notes
The Abtsberg vineyard is one of the greatest sites in all of Germany. It is extremely steep (up to 70% slope) and has perfect south-southwest exposure, making it the warmest site at Grünhaus. The wines are finely structured, with subtle minerality, a racy acidity, generous fruit and great delicacy. Auslese is a selection of very ripe fruit harvested late in the season. The longer hang time produces more fully developed aromas and flavors, and greater complexity.
Professional Ratings
-
James Suckling
Although this was made from super-ripe grapes, the dominant aroma is of powdered stone. Then, on the palate, stacks of succulent exotic-fruit character and quite some power. Compact finish that's still closed. Better from 2022.
-
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2019 Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg Riesling Auslese is super clear, precise and flinty on the deep, thrilling and stony rather than fruity nose. Lush and round on the palate, this is a sweet and piquant but digestible Auslese with the creamy texture of the Abtsberg in 2019, but it also has very fine acidity that leads to a piquant, precise, well-structured and salty finish. Good length.
Barrel Sample: 93-94
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
Following the Mosel River as it slithers and weaves dramatically through the Eifel Mountains in Germany’s far west, the Mosel wine region is considered by many as the source of the world’s finest and longest-lived Rieslings.
Mosel’s unique and unsurpassed combination of geography, geology and climate all combine together to make this true. Many of the Mosel’s best vineyard sites are on the steep south or southwest facing slopes, where vines receive up to ten times more sunlight, a very desirable condition in this cold climate region. Given how many twists and turns the Mosel River makes, it is not had to find a vineyard with this exposure. In fact, the Mosel’s breathtakingly steep slopes of rocky, slate-based soils straddle the riverbanks along its entire length. These rocky slate soils, as well as the river, retain and reflect heat back to the vineyards, a phenomenon that aids in the complete ripening of its grapes.
Riesling is by far the most important and prestigious grape of the Mosel, grown on approximately 60% of the region’s vineyard land—typically on the desirable sites that provide the best combination of sunlight, soil type and altitude. The best Mosel Rieslings—dry or sweet—express marked acidity, low alcohol, great purity and intensity with aromas and flavors of wet slate, citrus and stone fruit. With age, the wine’s color will become more golden and pleasing aromas of honey, dried apricot and sometimes petrol develop.
Other varieties planted in the Mosel include Müller-Thurgau, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), all performing quite well here.