Winemaker Notes
Critics argue that carbonic maceration masks terroir and instead stamps its own dominant mark on a wine. But certain combinations of grape and terroir—Gamay in Beaujolais being the foremost example—seem particularly well suited to carbonic maceration, providing wines with a distinct sense of place in addition to the hedonistic easy-drinking appeal the technique is intended to achieve. In the rugged hills of the Hautes-Corbières, Maxime Magnon has discovered the right formula for his old vines of Carignan, Grenache, and Cinsault.
The Rozeta features the exuberant, inviting perfume and velvety wild fruit expected from a wine that underwent 100% whole-cluster fermentation, then finishes with a crunchy backbone reminiscent of dark schist and roasted spices. Beware—the Languedoc just got dangerously gulpable.
With bold fruit flavors and accents of sweet spice, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre form the base of the classic Rhône Red Blend, while Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise often come in to play. Though they originated from France’s southern Rhône Valley, with some creative interpretation, Rhône blends have also become popular in other countries. Somm Secret—Putting their own local spin on the Rhône Red Blend, those from Priorat often include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In California, it is not uncommon to see Petite Sirah make an appearance.
The Corbières AOC, established in 1985, is the largest in the Languedoc, and represents the South of France in transition. Though viticulture here dates back to the Romans, only within the last twenty years have Corbières wines begun to reclaim their reputation. Approved for reds, rosés, and whites, the region's vineyards cover a wide variety of elevations, soil types, and exposures. Hilly terrain and the Atlantic Cers wind moderate the Mediterranean heat, giving the wines balance and complexity; the best will go ten years or more in the cellar.
Reds represent 88% of the AOC’s production and are an assemblage of the sun-loving grapes of southern France. Carignan’s briars, Grenache’s berries, Syrah’s cherries and Mourvèdre’s plums allow for a wide range of styles, which are often influenced by the wild herbs of the garrigue. Corbières rosés, though only 9% of production, are serious wines and the small production of Rhône-variety whites are fresh and sea-influenced.
With eleven sub-appellations, Corbières is an AOC in the process of refinement. Corbières-Boutenac attained Cru status in 2005, one of only five in the Languedoc to achieve this highest ranking.