Winemaker Notes
#5 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2023
Deep ruby red. Full, complex, and fine, with notes of tobacco, spices, cherry, berries, and balsamic. An enveloping palate, with elegant and persistent notes of plum, bitter cherry, strawberry jam, black pepper and licorice.
Pair with mature cheeses, truffles, and roasted red meats.
Professional Ratings
-
James Suckling
This is super silky and elegant aglianico with a deep and dense core of ripe red and black fruit. Full-bodied with beautifully embedded, fine-grained tannins and a long, controlled finish. Just a little pull on the mouth right at the end, so probably best to give it another year or two, if you can resist. Best from 2024.
-
Vinous
A rich and darkly inviting blend of plum sauce, clove, cocoa and camphor makes the 2016 Taurasi Riserva Radici impossible to ignore. This is pure class, pliant and enveloping on the palate, with silken waves of ripe red and black fruit guided by brisk acidity. Citrus and inner herbal tones add tremendous depth. The 2016’s regal tannins come forward through the close, framing the experience with youthful poise without slowing its momentum, leaving chalky mineral tones and nuances of nectarine to linger. The balance here is something to behold. Bury this beauty deep in the cellar.
-
Wine Spectator
A focused and fragrant red, leading with hints of pencil shavings, violet, tobacco and citrus that accent flavors of blackberry and black cherry fruit. This is refined and supple, fresh with lively acidity, but also shows weight and concentration, with sculpted tannins emerging on the mineral- and spice-laced finish. Drink now through 2036.
-
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Showing its distinctive white label, the Mastroberardino 2016 Taurasi Riserva Radici is a full-bodied expression from a classic vintage. The wine carries its fruit weight with grace and offers plenty of lingering black fruit, dried plum, cinnamon spice and toasted coconut. Detractors might fault the ample oak spice here, but the wine hits a delicate point of balance thanks to the extreme fruit quality at hand.
Making its home in the mountainous southern Italy, Aglianico is a bold red variety that is late to ripen and often spends until November on the vine. It thrives in Campania as the exclusive variety in the age-worthy red wine called Taurasi. Aglianico also has great success in the volcanic soils of Basilicata where it makes the robust, Aglianico del Vulture. Somm Secret—The name “Aglianico” bears striking resemblance to Ellenico, the Italian word for "Greek," but no evidence shows it has Greek ancestry. However, it first appeared in Italy around an ancient Greek colony located in present-day Avellino, Campania.
A winemaking renaissance is underfoot in Campania as more and more small, artisan and family-run wineries redefine their style with vineyard improvements and cellar upgrades. The region boasts a cool Mediterranean climate with extreme coastal, as well as high elevation mountain terroirs. It is cooler than one might expect in Campania; the region usually sees some of the last harvest dates in Italy.
Just south of Mount Vesuvio, the volcanic and sandy soils create aromatic and fresh reds based on Piedirosso and whites, made from Coda di Volpe and Falanghina. Both reds and whites go by the name, Lacryma Christi, meaning the "tears of Christ." South of Mount Vesuvio, along the Amalfi Coast, the white varieties of Falanghina and Biancolella make fresh, flirty, mineral-driven whites, and the red Piedirosso and Sciasinoso vines, which cling to steeply terraced coastlines, make snappy and ripe red wines.
Farther inland, as hills become mountains, the limestone soil of Irpinia supports the whites Fiano di Avellino, Falanghina and Greco di Tufo as well as the most-respected red of the south, Aglianico. Here the best and most age-worthy examples come from Taurasi.
Farther north and inland near the city of Benevento, the Taburno region also produces Aglianico of note—called Aglianico del Taburno—on alluvial soils. While not boasting the same heft as Taurasi, these are also reliable components of any cellar.