Winemaker Notes
The Clos de la Roche is one of the five Grands Crus of Morey-Saint-Denis. The plots, which represent about 70 ares, are located in the climates of the Genavrieres and the Monts Luisants. These Pinot Noir vines are 45 years old. It presents a beautiful structure, all in power and minerality. The winery recommends letting it age before enjoying its finesse and roundness.
Professional Ratings
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Jasper Morris
Two thirds. Clearly the deeper colour of the twins, and much less sensual on the nose. Sterner stuff, possibly a little vegetal touch from the stems, or is it just darker fruit. Then much livelier behind, with a crisper red fruit, less silky but with persistence. At the end though this is really serious. If you think of the identity of the vintage you could never imagine making this, says Virgile. Even more persistent. Really keeps building. Drink from 2029-2038.
Barrel Sample: 94-97
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
While Morey-St-Denis of Burgundy might not get the same attention as its neighbors, Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, there is no reason why it shouldn’t. The same line of limestone runs from the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey—all the way through Morey—ending in Chambolle.
There are four grand cru vineyards, moving southwards from the border with Gevrey-Chambertin: Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart and a small segment of Bonnes-Mares overlapping from Chambolle. Clos de la Roche is probably the finest vineyard, giving wines of true depth, body, and sturdiness for the long haul than most other vineyards.
Pinot Noir from Morey-St-Denis is known for its deep red cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit. Aromas of spice, licorice and purple flowers are present in the wines’ youth, evolving to forest and game as the wine ages.