Lagaria Merlot 2000
This delightful range, created by Neil and Maria Empson, is produced in the Trentino region under the geographic denomination of "delle Venezie".
The appellation's green, rolling hills, at the feet of the imposing Dolomitic mountain range in northeastern Italy, are ideally situated for viticulture. The cool temperatures and night/day, winter/summer temperature extremes, endow local wines, both red and white, with a particular freshness and a strong backbone of acidity. Because of Trentino's historical position as a crossroads between Italy and the German and Eastern European cultures, grape varieties are diverse, and comprise both the indigenous and the international. Lagaria was named after the region's stunning Val Lagarina: a kaleidoscope of color and light crowned by the severe peaks of the Dolomites. This beautiful natural setting was also the inspiration for the exclusive label, specially designed by Maria Gemma Empson. All three wines are 100% varietals from vineyards ranging in altitude from 250 to 500 meters above sea level. The fine terrain and exposure, together with state-of-the-art equipment and classic vinification, are conducive to exemplary, yet appealingly accessible varietals. In fact, the Empsons' objective in creating Lagaria, was to offer customers a price-conscious product that did not allow for any compromise in terms of quality - in other words, simply unbelievable value for money.
Trentino, the southern half, is primarily Italian-speaking and largely responsible for the production of non-native, international grapes. There is a significant quantity of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Merlot produced. But Trentino's native and most unique red variety, Teroldego, while still rare, is gaining popularity. It produces a deeply colored red wine rich in wild blackberry, herb, coffee and cocoa.
The rugged terrain of German-speaking Alto Adige (also referred to as Südtirol) focuses on small-scale viticulture, with great value placed on local varieties—though international varieties have been widely planted since the 1800s. Sheltered by the Alps from harsh northerly winds, many of the best vineyards are at extreme altitude but on steep slopes to increase sunlight exposure.
The primary white grapes are Pinot grigio, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot blanc, as well as smaller plantings of Sauvignon blanc, Müller Thurgau. These tend to be bright and refreshing with crisp acidity and just the right amount of texture. Some of the highest quality Pinot grigio in Italy is made here.
An easy-going red variety with generous fruit and a supple texture, Merlot can be made into a range of styles from everyday-drinking to world-renowned and age-worthy. Merlot is the dominant variety in the best wines from Bordeaux’s Right Bank regions of St. Emilion and Pomerol where it is blended with Cabernet Franc. On the Left Bank in the Medoc, it plays a supporting role to Cabernet Sauvignon—in both cases resulting in some of the longest-lived and highest-quality wines in the world. Merlot also frequently shines on its own, particularly from California’s Napa Valley.
In the Glass
Merlot is known for its soft, silky texture and approachable flavors of ripe plum, red and black cherry and raspberry. In a cool climate, you may find earthier notes alongside dried herbs, tobacco and tar, while Merlot from warmer regions is generally more straightforward and fruit-focused.
Lamb with Merlot is an ideal match—the sweetness of the meat picks up on the sweet fruit flavors of the wine to create a harmonious balance. Merlot’s gentle tannins allow for a hint of spice and its medium weight and bright acidity permit the possibilities of simple pizza or pasta with red sauce—overall, an extremely versatile food wine.
Since the release of the 2004 film Sideways, Merlot's repuation has taken a big hit, and more than a decade later has yet to fully recover, though it is on its way. What many viewers didn't realize was that as much as Miles derided the variety, the prized wine of his collection—a 1961 Château Cheval Blanc—is made from a blend of Merlot with Cabernet Franc.